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We are a licensed and competent tiling agency in Dublin. Having a number of years of experience and skilled industrial tilers in Dublin, we can enthrall the look of your location with our lovely ceramic tiles.
How To Tile A Wall: A Complete Guide To Wall Tiling
The idea of tiling your own walls might be difficult prospect, however with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you might think. Then don’t be as we have actually developed this useful guide that covers everything there is understand about wall tiling, if you’re a bit daunted by wall tiling! You can utilize the buttons listed below to skip to the bit you have an interest in or merely scroll to check out the whole lot.
Prior To Laying Your Tiles
Prior to you start, ensure the surfaces you’ll be dealing with are clean, dry and flat. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any cracks or holes. Examine the brand-new plaster is dry before you start, keeping in mind it can take a minimum of two months to set correctly, and use Mapei Primer G to prime any porous surface areas.
Similar to all Do It Yourself tasks, proper preparation and your security preceded. Below is a list of materials, protective equipment and tiling tools you’ll require to get the job done in a safe way and to a high standard:
Wall Tiling Preparation
How many tiles do you need?
The initial step is exercising how many tiles you need, and to do that, you need to determine the area of the area you’ll be covering. Measure the height and width of the space then multiply the figures.
Be sure to consider the location of any doors, cabinets or windows and subtract this from the total. To conserve confusion, it in some cases helps to knock up a fast sketch with all the measurements jotted down.
When you’re sure of the mathematics, you can go on and buy your tiles. The majority of ceramic tile loads cover a square metre, however we ‘d suggest having around 5-10% additional just in case.
It’s always recommended to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s much easier to make sure your pattern is in proportion. It likewise suggests any half-tiles you may require can go at the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s tempting to start in the corner, it might leave you with wonky rows and an unpleasant finish by the time you’re done.
Create Your Design
As we mentioned previously, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your space. You can find this merely by determining the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.
A gauge rod is a wise way to help you with your row and end tile size. We recommend using a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending upon the size of your wall.
Lay out a line of tiles with area in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. Mark each tile and gaps on the rod with a pencil and number them. This way, it’s simple to see how many you need in each row.
Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions throughout it:
Check if the last tile requires to be cut in order to fit as soon as you reach a corner. If less than half a tile will be required we suggest changing your starting position, as bigger tiles look far better when completed:
If you do require to move your beginning point, line up the rod at the original mark and make a new one midway between 2 tile marks. This must imply your end tiles you need to cut will be over half a tile large, which your centre line and centre tile now match up:
Hold the gauge rod versus your brand-new mark and, utilizing a spirit level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw a line from side to side:
Creating Horizontal Rows
It’s time for the horizontal ones once you have actually developed your vertical rows. We advise utilizing wooden battens secured to the wall as a guide, as they’ll also assist prevent slippage while the adhesive is setting.
Align your gauge rod, vertical line and skirting/floor, then pencil mark along with the rod’s top tile mark. Do this all the way up the wall following the vertical line up until the rod touches the ceiling. With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you will not have to cut any tiles for the bottom and leading rows. If not, merely halve the range between the wall and rod marks and, similar to the vertical rows, make certain it’s majority a tile wide. If they’re less than half a tile’s width, just utilize the next discount on the rod:
Measure the range between the two wall marks and include another halfway in between them:
If its marks with the one you’ve just made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then line up one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row begins. Utilizing a long straight edge and level, draw the line throughout the wall from the mark:
Examine behind the wall for any pipes or cables, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Its leading edge ought to be lined up with the horizontal pencil line, and must be straight. Then use another batten for the vertical line. It’s a great idea to leave the batten’s nail heads protruding somewhat as they’ll be much easier to remove in the future:
Part-Tiling A Wall
If you’re just part-tiling a wall a leading horizontal row complete of entire tiles makes for a much cleaner surface, so we think it’s actually worth investing some time to get it.
Use a gauge rod to exercise the position of the most affordable horizontal row, then mark the leading row’s position on the wall:
Fill the gap between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Keep in mind, you don’t desire them too small, so move your top row if they’re less than half a tile:
If you do not like the concept of cutting tiles and would rather avoid it, inspect to see if the skirting/wall is even. Utilize a long, straight batten, levelled with a spirit level, to find the most affordable point. You can use it to align your tiles rather if it’s directly. If not, it’s time to get cutting those tiles!
Fixing Whole Tiles To A Wall
It’s actually crucial to start laying your field tiles so the faces are level. If any are unequal, eliminate them and either add or remove adhesive so they all sit flush.
Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles typically suggest you won’t need corner trim. Tile the very first wall right as much as the edge of your space then do the same for the return, permitting the corners to overlap. Make certain to leave a space for grouting, too.
Starting in the corner of your two battens, scoop up and apply some adhesive to the wall utilizing your notched trowel. We’re looking for excellent ridges here, as they mean an equivalent amount of adhesive behind the tiles and a better possibility of them being straight.
Use the very first tile to the corner where your battens fulfill so its edges are against them, and push its centre securely to the wall. Add the tiles above and beside it, being sure to leave a gap in between them:
Add tile spacers to these spaces and change the tiles where essential. Push your spacers in firmly to make for an even grout and simpler joints in the future:
Continue adding tiles till you’ve covered all the adhesive, then continue the process for the rest of the wall. Wipe any excess adhesive from the tiles using a.
damp sponge as you go– it’s challenging to get off once it’s dried:
Get rid of the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that might have left from under the tiles. Then finish off the wall with the cut tiles needed for the.
Tiling Internal Corners.
The most convenient method to measure for cutting is using the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, place another versus the wall, and then mark they overlap in felt suggestion pen. Otherwise, simply take different measurements at the top and bottom of the area and cut the tile to fit:
If required, check the cut tile fits correctly in the gap and change with a tile file. If you’re going to tile the next wall also you don’t require to be completely accurate here, but remember to leave enough space in the corner for grout if you’re just tiling one:
Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile utilizing the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to protect it, and utilize joint spacers to keep the gaps if needed:
Once you have actually completed your first wall, repeat the process for the next one. Always pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls fulfill. This can be the difference in between it looking scrappy and a job well done:
Tiling External Corners.
For a neat finish on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It is available in a variety of colours and products (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps safeguard your edges from knocks and chips.
Cut your corner trim to the ideal length utilizing a hacksaw, then apply a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Line up the trim with the tiles from your very first wall leaving room for grout in the future: Vertically apply more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, making sure not to knock or loosen up off any tiles from the other wall:
Repeat the procedure from the first wall, working away from the corner trim and remembering to leave space for grout. Use spacers to help you adjust the tiles should.
you require to, and ensure the range between tiles stays consistent. Confirm the trim hasn’t moved and adjust if required once you have actually ended up:
Tiling A Splashback.
Tiling a splashback will depend nearly totally on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight or even a little curved back, measure the wall’s depth in multiples of entire tiles.
Procedure the width of your basin in entire tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:
Lay out a row of tiles and consist of spaces and edging strips at either end. Cut a wood batten to the very same length and mark the tile and join positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, along with your lower batten for any half-tiles:
Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall utilizing a spirit level:
To cut the bottom row of tiles, repair the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Check it’s straight using.
a spirit level. If you doubt, the upper edge must be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:
Apply the adhesive equally to the area with a notched trowel. If you doubt, the upper edge ought to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:
Start in the middle and attach your first tile in line with the batten’s marks. As soon as you have actually finished that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:
Use a wet cloth to wipe off any excess adhesive:
Apply matching glazed trim to the side and upper edges, then mark and suffice to the best length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and refine with a tile file for a particularly wise surface:
When your edges are applied, get rid of the batten and measure the gap listed below. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to enable sealant between the sink and tiles. .
when the adhesive is dry, use the grout and seal the bottom gap:
And there you have it! If that doesn’t answer your questions about wall tiling then we do not know what will. if you’re still left desiring more however you can constantly watch our helpful How-To videos including TV handyman Craig Phillips or go to the Assistance Centre section of our site for more practical hints and pointers. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button listed below:.
The idea of tiling your own walls might be difficult possibility, but with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more simple than you might think. Lay out a line of tiles with space between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. If not, simply cut in half the range between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile wide. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your area then do the same for the return, permitting the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to permit for sealant between the sink and tiles.
Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall
Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally given in place in an array to lid roofs, floors, walls, edges, or other objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes refer to thesame units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In unusual sense, a tile is a construction tile or same object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of ablaze clay.
Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from easy square tiles to perplexing or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but supplementary materials are next commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and additional composite materials, and stone. Tiling stone is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used upon walls than upon floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.
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