WHY SELECT Modern Tiling

There are numerous tiling business in Dublin, but it’s constantly the most essential to trust and choose. Your single click when looking for “local tilers near me” online or calling someone over the phone can help you discover a tiler in Dublin. Choosing the right tiling system in Dublin can be a complicated job. The issue is who to contact the Dublin tiling centers. Do not think all of you blindly. Modern Tiling might be the perfect choice for your tiling requires.

We are a certified and licensed tiling firm in Dublin. Having numerous years of experience and competent industrial tilers in Dublin, we can enthrall the look of your place with our stunning ceramic tiles.


How To Tile A Wall: A Total Guide To Wall Tiling

The thought of tiling your own walls might be overwhelming prospect, however with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you might think. Then do not be as we’ve developed this convenient guide that covers whatever there is understand about wall tiling, if you’re a bit daunted by wall tiling! You can utilize the buttons listed below to avoid to the bit you have an interest in or simply scroll to check out the whole lot.

Prior To Laying Your Tiles

Before you begin, make sure the surface areas you’ll be working on are tidy, flat and dry. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any cracks or holes. Check the brand-new plaster is dry before you start, remembering it can take a minimum of 2 months to set properly, and utilize Mapei Guide G to prime any permeable surface areas.

Just like all Do It Yourself jobs, appropriate preparation and your security come first. Below is a list of products, protective gear and tiling tools you’ll need to finish the job in a safe method and to a high standard:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

The number of tiles do you require?

The first step is exercising the number of tiles you require, and to do that, you need to compute the area of the area you’ll be covering. Step the height and width of the space then multiply the figures.

Make certain to consider the area of any windows, doors or cabinets and deduct this from the overall. To save confusion, it in some cases helps to knock up a quick sketch with all the measurements jotted down.

Once you’re sure of the maths, you can proceed and purchase your tiles. The majority of ceramic tile packs cover a square metre, however we ‘d advise having around 5-10% extra just in case.



It’s always suggested to begin tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s simpler to ensure your pattern is balanced. It also indicates any half-tiles you may need can go at the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s appealing to start in the corner, it might leave you with wonky rows and a messy finish by the time you’re done.

Create Your Design

As we pointed out earlier, establish your vertical rows from the middle of your space. You can discover this merely by determining the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a smart method to help you with your row and end tile size. We suggest utilizing a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending upon the size of your wall.

Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. Mark each tile and spaces on the rod with a pencil and number them. In this manner, it’s simple to see how many you need in each row.

Step 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions throughout it:

Step 2

When you reach a corner, check if the last tile needs to be cut in order to fit. If less than half a tile will be required we suggest changing your beginning position, as larger tiles look better when ended up:

Step 3

Line up the rod at the original mark and make a new one midway in between 2 tile marks if you do need to move your beginning point. This ought to imply your end tiles you require to cut will be over half a tile broad, and that your centre line and centre tile now compare:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod against your new mark and, utilizing a level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw a line from side to side:

Creating Horizontal Rows

Once you’ve established your vertical rows, it’s time for the horizontal ones. We recommend using wooden battens protected to the wall as a guide, as they’ll likewise assist avoid slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Action 1

Align your gauge rod, vertical line and skirting/floor, then pencil mark together with the rod’s leading tile mark. Do this all the way up the wall following the vertical line until the rod touches the ceiling. With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you won’t have to cut any tiles for the bottom and top rows. If not, simply halve the range in between the wall and rod marks and, just like the vertical rows, make certain it’s majority a tile large. If they’re less than half a tile’s width, simply use the next discount on the rod:

Step 2

Procedure the range in between the two wall marks and include another midway between them:

Action 3

If its marks with the one you’ve just made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then align one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row starts. Using a long straight edge and spirit level, draw the line throughout the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Examine behind the wall for any pipes or cable televisions, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Its top edge should be aligned with the horizontal pencil line, and must be straight. Then use another batten for the vertical line. It’s an excellent idea to leave the batten’s nail heads standing out slightly as they’ll be simpler to remove in the future:

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re just part-tiling a wall a leading horizontal row complete of entire tiles makes for a much cleaner finish, so we think it’s truly worth investing some time to get it.

Action 1

Utilize a gauge rod to exercise the position of the lowest horizontal row, then mark the leading row’s position on the wall:

Step 2

Fill the space in between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Keep in mind, you don’t want them too little, so move your top row if they’re less than half a tile:

Action 3

If you do not like the concept of cutting tiles and would rather avoid it, examine to see if the skirting/wall is even. Utilize a long, straight batten, levelled with a level, to find the lowest point. If it’s straight, you can utilize it to align your tiles rather. If not, it’s time to get cutting those tiles!

Fixing Whole Tiles To A Wall

It’s really crucial to start laying your field tiles so the faces are level. Eliminate them and either add or get rid of adhesive so they all sit flush if any are unequal.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles usually indicate you won’t require corner trim. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the very same for the return, enabling the corners to overlap. Make certain to leave a space for grouting, too.

Step 1

Beginning in the corner of your 2 battens, scoop up and use some adhesive to the wall using your notched trowel. We’re looking for excellent ridges here, as they indicate an equal amount of adhesive behind the tiles and a much better opportunity of them being directly.

Action 2

Use the very first tile to the corner where your battens fulfill so its edges protest them, and push its centre strongly to the wall. Include the tiles above and beside it, making certain to leave a space between them:

Step 3

Include tile spacers to these gaps and adjust the tiles where essential. Press your spacers in securely to produce an even grout and easier joints later on:

Step 4

Continue adding tiles until you’ve covered all the adhesive, then carry on the procedure for the remainder of the wall. Wipe any excess adhesive from the tiles using a.
damp sponge as you go– it’s challenging to leave when it’s dried:

Step 5.

Get rid of the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that may have gotten away from under the tiles. End up off the wall with the cut tiles needed for the.

Tiling Internal Corners.

Action 1.

The simplest method to determine for cutting is using the last entire one in the row– hold a tile over it, location another against the wall, and then mark they overlap in felt suggestion pen. Otherwise, simply take separate measurements at the top and bottom of the space and cut the tile to fit:

Action 2.

If needed, inspect the cut tile fits properly in the space and adjust with a tile file. If you’re going to tile the next wall as well you do not need to be absolutely precise here, however remember to leave enough space in the corner for grout if you’re only tiling one:

Step 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile utilizing the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to secure it, and utilize joint spacers to keep the gaps if needed:

Step 4.

When you’ve completed your first wall, repeat the process for the next one. Always pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls fulfill. This can be the difference in between it looking scrappy and a task well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a cool finish on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It can be found in a series of products and colours (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps secure your edges from knocks and chips.

Action 1.

Cut your corner trim to the right length utilizing a hacksaw, then use a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Line up the trim with the tiles from your first wall leaving room for grout later on: Vertically apply more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, taking care not to loosen or knock off any tiles from the other wall:

Step 2.

Repeat the procedure from the very first wall, working far from the corner trim and keeping in mind to leave space for grout. Usage spacers to assist you change the tiles should.
you require to, and make sure the range between tiles remains constant. Confirm the trim hasn’t moved and adjust if needed once you have actually finished:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend practically completely on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight or even somewhat curved back, measure the wall’s depth in multiples of whole tiles.

Step 1.

Procedure the width of your basin in entire tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Step 2.

Set out a row of tiles and consist of spaces and edging strips at either end. Cut a wooden batten to the same length and mark the tile and sign up with positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, as well as your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Step 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall using a level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, fix the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Examine it’s straight utilizing.
a spirit level. If you doubt, the upper edge must be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Use the adhesive evenly to the location with a notched trowel. If you doubt, the upper edge must be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 6.

Start in the middle and connect your first tile in line with the batten’s marks. When you have actually ended up that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Step 7.

Utilize a damp fabric to wipe off any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the side and upper edges, then mark and cut it to the best length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and refine with a tile file for a particularly smart surface:

Step 9.

Once your edges are applied, remove the batten and measure the space listed below. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to enable sealant between the sink and tiles. Then.
when the adhesive is dry, use the grout and seal the bottom space:

If that does not answer your questions about wall tiling then we do not know what will. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button listed below:.

The idea of tiling your own walls may be challenging prospect, but with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you might believe. Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. If not, simply cut in half the distance between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile broad. Tile the first wall right up to the edge of your area then do the exact same for the return, permitting the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to enable for sealant between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally complete in place in an array to lid roofs, floors, walls, edges, or supplementary objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes focus on to similar units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In unconventional sense, a tile is a construction tile or same object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of afire clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from simple square tiles to mysterious or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but new materials are as well as commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and supplementary composite materials, and stone. Tiling rock is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used on walls than on floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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