WHY CHOOSE US
When it comes to finding a reliable tiling business in Dublin, there are numerous options available. Whether you prefer to search online or make a quick phone call, you can easily locate a tiler in Dublin. However, choosing the right tiling service provider can be quite challenging. It’s important to avoid blindly trusting just anyone.
If you’re looking for quality tiling services in Dublin, look no further than Modern Tiling. We are a licensed and highly skilled tiling company with years of experience. Our team of expert tilers will enhance the aesthetic of your space with our exquisite ceramic tiles. Trust us to deliver exceptional results for your tiling needs.
How To Tile A Wall: A Complete Guide To Wall Tiling
The thought of undertaking a wall tiling project may initially appear overwhelming, but fear not! With adequate preparation and the correct tools, it is a more straightforward task than you imagine. To assist you, we have crafted a comprehensive guide that encompasses all the essential aspects of wall tiling. Feel free to use the provided buttons to navigate directly to specific sections or avidly scroll through for a complete understanding of the entire guide.
Prior To Laying Your Tiles
To ensure a successful tiling project, it’s important to start with well-prepared surfaces. Make sure the surfaces are clean, dry, and level before you begin. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, make sure to remove it and fill in any holes or cracks in the plaster. Allow enough time for the new plaster to dry completely; this can take at least two months. For porous surfaces, apply Mapei Primer G for proper priming.
When working on any DIY project, safety and preparation are key. Here’s a comprehensive list of the tools, protective gear, and materials you’ll need to complete your tiling job safely and achieve excellent results:
Materials: Wall tiles, Tile Adhesive, Grout
Protective Kit: Safety Goggles or Glasses, Dust mask, Latex Grip Safety Gloves
Tools: Notched trowel, Spirit level, Tile spacers, Drill with ceramic/masonry bit, Tile cutter, Tile nippers, Grout remover, Grout float, Mixing bucket, Pile marker/pencil, Rubber Mallet, Hammer, Masonry nails, Hacksaw, Cold chisel, Masking tape, Cloth.
Wall Tiling Preparation
How many tiles do you require?
The first step involves determining the quantity of tiles required, which involves calculating the dimensions of the area to be covered. Measure the height and width of the space and multiply these measurements.
It is important to account for any obstructions such as cabinets, doors, or windows by subtracting their dimensions from the total. To avoid confusion, it is helpful to quickly sketch the area with all measurements noted.
Once you are confident in the calculations, you can proceed to purchase the tiles. Ceramic tile packs typically cover one square metre, but it is advisable to have an additional 5-10% contingency in case of any issues.
When it comes to tiling, it is often recommended to start in the centre of the wall in order to ensure symmetry in your pattern. This approach also allows for any half-tiles needed to be placed at the end of each row and maintain a consistent size. Although starting in the corner may be tempting, it can result in uneven rows and a messy surface at the end.
Produce Your Style
To create your design, begin by determining the height and width of your area, then mark the centre point with a pencil. A useful tool to assist you in determining tile and gap sizes is a gauge rod. This can be made from a piece of wood measuring 50mm x 25mm, or any suitable size, with a length of approximately 1.8m depending on your wall size.
Position a line of tiles with gaps between them, aligning the batten edge with the first tile. Use a pencil to mark each tile and gap on the rod, numbering them accordingly. This method makes it easy to see the quantity of tiles needed for each row.
Hold the gauge rod with the central part of your wall, ensuring it is in perfect line. Proceed to mark the positions of the tiles across the rod.
Check if the last tile requires to be cut in order to fit as soon as you reach a corner. If it is determined that less than half a tile will be needed, we recommend reconsidering the starting position. This is because larger tiles tend to result in a more visually appealing finished look.
Line up the rod at the original mark and make a brand-new one midway in between two tile marks if you do need to move your beginning point. This should mean your end tiles you need to cut will be over half a tile broad, which your centre line and centre tile now compare:
Hold the gauge rod against your brand-new mark and, utilising a level to make ensure it’s straight, draw a line from side to side:
Creating Horizontal Rows
It’s time for the horizontal ones as soon as you have actually developed your vertical rows. To prevent slippage during adhesive setting, we recommend using wooden battens secured to the wall as a guide.
Ensure alignment between your gauge rod, vertical line, and skirting/floor, then mark alongside the leading tile mark on the rod using a pencil. Repeat this process, following the vertical line until the rod reaches the ceiling. Ideally, the wall and rod lines will align perfectly, eliminating the need to cut tiles for the top and bottom rows. If adjustments are necessary, simply divide the distance between the wall and rod marks in half. Ensure that the resulting space is wider than half a tile, similar to the requirements for the vertical rows. In case it is narrower, proceed to the next marker on the rod.
Step the distance between the two wall marks and then include an additional marking in the middle of that measurement:
Ensure that the gauge rod is not touching the skirting or floor. Align one of the marks on the rod with the mark you just made. Establish another mark in line with the bottom of the rod. This will serve as the starting point for your horizontal row. Utilising a lengthy, straight edge and a spirit level, draw a line across the wall, starting from the mark you made.
Check behind the wall for any cable televisions or pipelines, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Utilise another batten for the vertical line.
Part-Tiling A Wall
If you’re just part-tiling a wall a top horizontal row complete of whole tiles makes for a much cleaner finish, so we think it’s actually worth investing some time to get it.
Utilise a gauge rod to work out the position of the most affordable horizontal row, then mark the leading row’s position on the wall:
Use cut tiles to bridge the space between your lower row and the skirting or floor. Remember, you do not want them too little, so move your leading row if they’re less than half a tile:
If you do not like the idea of cutting tiles and would rather avoid it, examine to see if the skirting/wall is even. To find the lowest point, employ a lengthy and straight batten, ensuring its alignment through the use of a spirit level. If it’s straight, you can use it to align your tiles instead. However, if it’s not level, then it’s time to roll up your sleeves and start cutting those tiles!
Fixing Whole Tiles To A Wall
It’s actually essential to begin laying your field tiles so the faces are level. If any are uneven, remove them and either include or eliminate adhesive so they all sit flush.
Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles usually imply you will not need corner trim. When tiling, start with the first wall and tile it all the way to the edge of the designated area. Repeat this process for the adjacent wall, allowing the tiles to overlap at the corners. Make sure to leave a gap for grouting purposes as well.
Beginning in the corner of your 2 battens, scoop up and use some adhesive to the wall utilising your notched trowel. Make sure to create ridges with the adhesive, as this ensures an even distribution of adhesive behind the tiles and increases the chances of them being aligned correctly.
Position the first tile at the corner where it meets the battens. Align the edges of the tile with the battens and firmly press its centre against the wall. Include the tiles above and beside it, making sure to leave a gap between them:
Add tile spacers to these gaps and change the tiles where necessary. Push your spacers in securely to make for an even grout and simpler joints later on:
Continue including tiles up until you’ve covered all the adhesive, then continue the procedure for the rest of the wall. As you progress, make sure to periodically clean off any excess adhesive from the tiles using a damp sponge. Once the adhesive dries, it becomes challenging to remove.
Eliminate the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that might have gotten away from under the tiles. Complete off the wall with the cut tiles needed for the.
Tiling Internal Corners.
One of the simplest techniques is to use the last complete tile in the row as a guide. Just hold a tile over it, position another tile against the wall, and mark where they overlap with a marker. Alternatively, you can measure the top and bottom of the space separately and cut the tile accordingly to ensure a perfect fit.
Check the cut tile fits appropriately in the space and adjust with a tile file if required. If you’re going to tile the next wall too you don’t need to be completely accurate here, however keep in mind to leave enough space in the corner for grout if you’re only tiling one:
Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile utilising the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to secure it, and use joint spacers to keep the spaces if needed:
As soon as you’ve finished your very first wall, repeat the process for the next one. Always pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls meet. This can be the distinction between it looking scrappy and a task well done:
Tiling External Corners.
For a cool finish on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It is available in a series of colours and materials (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and assists protect your edges from knocks and chips.
First, use a hacksaw to cut your corner trim to the desired length. Next, apply a strip of adhesive to the return wall and firmly press the trim into place. Make sure to align the trim with the tiles on the first wall, leaving space for grout in the future. To secure the trim further, vertically apply more adhesive to the return wall using a notched trowel. Be careful not to disturb or dislodge any tiles on the adjacent wall.
Repeat the procedure from the first wall, working far from the corner trim and keeping in mind to leave space for grout. Usage spacers to assist you change the tiles should.
you require to, and guarantee the range between tiles stays consistent. Verify the trim hasn’t moved and readjust if required when you have actually ended up:
Tiling A Splashback.
Tiling a splashback will depend practically completely on the shape of your basin. Determine the wall’s depth in multiples of whole tiles if there’s a straight or even a little curved back. A more noticeable curved way you’ll require to cut tiles to permit and fit for a row of half-tiles closest to your basin. In cases where the curve is minimal or the edge is completely straight, you have the option to lay the initial row without cutting any tiles. We suggest using either cardboard or paper spacers to assist you while the adhesive dries, which can then be eliminated and the join filled with sealant.
Step the width of your basin in whole tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:
Set out a row of tiles and include spaces and edging strips at either end. Cut a wood batten to the very same length and mark the tile and sign up with positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, along with your lower batten for any half-tiles:
Use spirit level to draw a vertical line up the wall from the centre point:
To cut the bottom row of tiles, repair the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Examine it using a spirit level. If you doubt, the upper edge ought to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:
Use the adhesive uniformly to the area with a notched trowel. If you doubt, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:
Start in the middle and connect your first tile in line with the batten’s marks. Once you’ve completed that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:
Utilise a wet cloth to rub out any excess adhesive:
Apply matching glazed trim to the side and upper edges, then mark and suffice to the best length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and fine-tune with a tile declare a particularly smart surface:
As soon as your edges are applied, eliminate the batten and measure the gap below. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to enable sealant in between the sink and tiles. Then.
when the adhesive is dry, use the grout and seal the bottom space:
So, can you tile on plywood?
Tile installation on plywood is indeed possible, but it necessitates adherence to specific guidelines for a successful outcome. Although plywood can be used as a suitable foundation for tiling floors, extra care must be taken when tiling walls. Prior to starting the tiling process on plywood walls, it is crucial to thoroughly clean the surface, ensure it is completely dry, and address any imperfections. To enhance the bonding between the adhesive and the surface, it is advisable to apply a suitable primer or bonding agent. Furthermore, to enhance stability and prevent potential issues arising from temperature fluctuations and movement, it may be prudent to consider utilising a cement backer board or other suitable wall substrates. By following these precautionary measures, one can achieve an enduring and aesthetically pleasing tiled surface on plywood walls.
And there you have it! If previous information does not address your inquiries regarding wall tiling, we have other resources available. If you’re still left desiring more, however, you can always watch our helpful How-To videos including TV handyman Craig Phillips or check out the Help Centre section of our website for more practical hints and suggestions.
The thought of tiling your own walls may be an overwhelming possibility, however with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you might believe. Begin by arranging a row of tiles with appropriate spacing between them. Align the edge of your batten with that of the first tile. If necessary, adjust the distance between the wall and rod marks by halving it. Remember to ensure that the width is greater than half a tile, just as you did for the vertical rows. Proceed to tile the first wall up to the area’s edge, repeating the process for the return and allowing for overlapping corners. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to allow for sealant in between the sink and tiles.
Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall
Tiles, commonly made from durable materials like ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or glass, are typically thin, square or rectangular coverings.They are generally put in place in an array to cover roofs, floors, walls, edges, or new objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes talk to similar units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In an unusual sense, a tile is a construction tile or the same object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word itself originates from the French word “tuile,” which traces its roots back to the Latin word “tegula,” meaning a clay roof tile.
When it comes to covering walls and floors, tiles are a popular choice. From basic square designs to intricate mosaics, tiles offer endless possibilities. Ceramic is the most common material for tiles, with glazed options for indoor use and unglazed for roofs. However, other materials like glass, cork, concrete, composite materials, and stone are also commonly used. Stone tiles are often made from marble, onyx, granite, or slate. It’s important to note that wall tiles can be thinner compared to floor tiles, as floors require more durability to withstand impacts.