WHY CHOOSE Modern Tiling

There are a number of tiling companies in Dublin, but it’s always the most essential to trust and select. Your single click when searching for “local tilers near me” online or calling someone over the phone can help you find a tiler in Dublin. Picking the ideal tiling system in Dublin can be a difficult task. The issue is who to call the Dublin tiling facilities. Don’t believe all of you blindly. Modern Tiling might be the ideal option for your tiling requires.

We are a qualified and certified tiling company in Dublin. Having numerous years of experience and competent business tilers in Dublin, we can enthrall the appearance of your location with our beautiful ceramic tiles.


How To Tile A Wall: A Complete Guide To Wall Tiling

The thought of tiling your own walls might be complicated prospect, however with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you might think. Then do not be as we have actually created this useful guide that covers whatever there is know about wall tiling, if you’re a bit daunted by wall tiling! You can use the buttons below to avoid to the bit you have an interest in or merely scroll to check out the entire lot.

Prior To Laying Your Tiles

Prior to you begin, make sure the surfaces you’ll be working on are clean, dry and flat. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or fractures. Examine the new plaster is dry before you start, bearing in mind it can take at least two months to set appropriately, and utilize Mapei Primer G to prime any permeable surfaces.

Similar to all DIY jobs, correct preparation and your safety come first. Below is a list of products, protective gear and tiling tools you’ll require to finish the job in a safe method and to a high requirement:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

How many tiles do you need?

The primary step is exercising how many tiles you need, and to do that, you have to compute the location of the area you’ll be covering. Measure the height and width of the space then multiply the figures.

Make certain to consider the area of any doors, windows or cabinets and deduct this from the total. To save confusion, it in some cases helps to knock up a quick sketch with all the dimensions written down.

You can go ahead and buy your tiles as soon as you’re sure of the mathematics. The majority of ceramic tile packs cover a square metre, but we ‘d suggest having around 5-10% additional just in case.


Getting Started

It’s always a good idea to begin tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s easier to ensure your pattern is symmetrical. It also indicates any half-tiles you may need can address completion of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s tempting to start in the corner, it may leave you with wonky rows and an untidy surface by the time you’re done.

Create Your Design

As we discussed earlier, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your area. You can discover this just by measuring the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a wise method to help you with your row and end tile size. We recommend utilizing a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending on the size of your wall.

Lay out a line of tiles with area in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. Mark each tile and gaps on the rod with a pencil and number them. This way, it’s simple to see the number of you require in each row.

Step 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions throughout it:

Action 2

As soon as you reach a corner, check if the last tile requires to be cut in order to fit. If less than half a tile will be required we suggest changing your beginning position, as bigger tiles look much better when ended up:

Step 3

If you do require to move your starting point, line up the rod at the initial mark and make a new one midway in between 2 tile marks. This need to imply your end tiles you require to cut will be majority a tile large, which your centre line and centre tile now compare:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod against your brand-new mark and, using a level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw the line from side to side:

Producing Horizontal Rows

It’s time for the horizontal ones once you have actually established your vertical rows. We suggest using wooden battens secured to the wall as a guide, as they’ll likewise assist prevent slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Step 1

Align your gauge rod, vertical line and skirting/floor, then pencil mark along with the rod’s leading tile mark. Do this all the way up the wall following the vertical line until the rod touches the ceiling. With any luck, the wall and rod lines will compare and you will not need to cut any tiles for the bottom and top rows. If not, just halve the distance between the wall and rod marks and, just like the vertical rows, make sure it’s over half a tile large. If they’re less than half a tile’s width, simply utilize the next mark down on the rod:

Step 2

Step the distance between the two wall marks and add another halfway between them:

Step 3

If its marks with the one you’ve just made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then line up one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row begins. Utilizing a long straight edge and spirit level, draw the line throughout the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Examine behind the wall for any pipelines or cable televisions, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Its leading edge ought to be aligned with the horizontal pencil line, and need to be straight. Then utilize another batten for the vertical line. It’s an excellent concept to leave the batten’s nail heads protruding a little as they’ll be easier to remove later on:

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re only part-tiling a wall a top horizontal row full of whole tiles makes for a much cleaner finish, so we believe it’s really worth investing some time to get it.

Action 1

Utilize a gauge rod to work out the position of the most affordable horizontal row, then mark the top row’s position on the wall:

Action 2

Fill the gap between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Remember, you do not want them too little, so move your leading row if they’re less than half a tile:

Step 3

If you don’t like the concept of cutting tiles and would rather avoid it, inspect to see if the skirting/wall is even. Utilize a long, straight batten, levelled with a level, to find the lowest point. You can utilize it to align your tiles rather if it’s directly. If not, it’s time to get cutting those tiles!

Fixing Whole Tiles To A Wall

It’s actually important to begin laying your field tiles so the faces are level. If any are irregular, remove them and either add or remove adhesive so they all sit flush.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles generally suggest you will not need corner trim. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the exact same for the return, enabling the corners to overlap. Make sure to leave a gap for grouting, too.

Action 1

Beginning in the corner of your 2 battens, scoop up and use some adhesive to the wall using your notched trowel. We’re looking for great ridges here, as they imply an equivalent quantity of adhesive behind the tiles and a better possibility of them being straight.

Step 2

Apply the very first tile to the corner where your battens meet so its edges are against them, and press its centre securely to the wall. Include the tiles above and beside it, being sure to leave a space between them:

Step 3

Include tile spacers to these spaces and change the tiles where required. Press your spacers in securely to make for an even grout and simpler joints in the future:

Step 4

Continue including tiles until you have actually covered all the adhesive, then carry on the process for the remainder of the wall. Clean any excess adhesive from the tiles using a.
moist sponge as you go– it’s difficult to get off once it’s dried:

Step 5.

Eliminate the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that might have left from under the tiles. Then round off the wall with the cut tiles needed for the.

Tiling Internal Corners.

Step 1.

The easiest method to measure for cutting is utilizing the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, location another versus the wall, and then mark they overlap in felt tip pen. Otherwise, merely take different measurements at the top and bottom of the space and cut the tile to fit:

Step 2.

If needed, inspect the cut tile fits properly in the gap and adjust with a tile file. If you’re going to tile the next wall too you don’t need to be completely precise here, however remember to leave enough space in the corner for grout if you’re only tiling one:

Step 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile using the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to secure it, and utilize joint spacers to keep the gaps if required:

Step 4.

Repeat the process for the next one once you have actually finished your very first wall. Constantly pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls satisfy. This can be the difference in between it looking scrappy and a task well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a neat finish on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It can be found in a range of colours and materials (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps protect your edges from knocks and chips.

Action 1.

Cut your corner trim to the right length utilizing a hacksaw, then use a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Line up the trim with the tiles from your first wall leaving space for grout later: Vertically apply more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, making sure not to knock or loosen off any tiles from the other wall:

Step 2.

Repeat the procedure from the very first wall, working away from the corner trim and keeping in mind to leave space for grout. Usage spacers to assist you change the tiles should.
you need to, and ensure the distance between tiles stays consistent. Confirm the trim hasn’t moved and adjust if needed once you have actually completed:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend almost entirely on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight and even somewhat curved back, measure the wall’s depth in multiples of entire tiles. A more pronounced curved ways you’ll need to cut tiles to enable and fit for a row of half-tiles closest to your basin. If there’s only a minor curve, or the edge is absolutely directly, you can lay the very first row level to it without having to cut tiles. We suggest utilizing either cardboard or paper spacers to guide you while the adhesive dries, which can then be removed and the sign up with filled with sealant.

Action 1.

Step the width of your basin in entire tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Action 2.

Set out a row of tiles and include areas and edging strips at either end. Cut a wood batten to the very same length and mark the tile and join positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, as well as your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Action 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall using a spirit level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, fix the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Examine it’s straight utilizing.
a spirit level. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge should be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Use the adhesive evenly to the location with a notched trowel. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 6.

Start in the middle and connect your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. When you have actually ended up that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Step 7.

Use a damp fabric to rub out any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the side and upper edges, then mark and cut it to the ideal length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and refine with a tile declare a particularly clever finish:

Step 9.

As soon as your edges are applied, get rid of the batten and measure the gap below. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to permit sealant in between the sink and tiles. .
when the adhesive is dry, apply the grout and seal the bottom gap:

If that does not address your concerns about wall tiling then we do not know what will. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button listed below:.

The thought of tiling your own walls may be complicated possibility, however with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you may believe. Lay out a line of tiles with space between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. If not, just cut in half the distance between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile wide. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the same for the return, enabling the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to allow for sealant in between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally utter in place in an array to cover roofs, floors, walls, edges, or further objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes take up to similar units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In marginal sense, a tile is a construction tile or same object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of on fire clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from easy square tiles to obscure or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but new materials are plus commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and other composite materials, and stone. Tiling stone is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used upon walls than upon floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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