WHY PICK Modern Tiling

There are several tiling companies in Dublin, however it’s constantly the most important to trust and pick. Your single click when browsing for “local tilers near me” online or calling somebody over the phone can assist you discover a tiler in Dublin. Selecting the ideal tiling system in Dublin can be an overwhelming task.

We are a qualified and licensed tiling firm in Dublin. Having a number of years of experience and proficient industrial tilers in Dublin, we can enthrall the look of your place with our beautiful ceramic tiles.


How To Tile A Wall: A Total Guide To Wall Tiling

The thought of tiling your own walls might be daunting possibility, but with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you might believe. If you’re a bit intimidated by wall tiling then don’t be as we’ve developed this handy guide that covers whatever there is know about wall tiling! You can utilize the buttons listed below to skip to the bit you’re interested in or merely scroll to read the entire lot.

Prior To Laying Your Tiles

Prior to you start, make sure the surface areas you’ll be working on are clean, flat and dry. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or cracks. Inspect the brand-new plaster is dry before you start, bearing in mind it can take a minimum of 2 months to set correctly, and utilize Mapei Primer G to prime any porous surfaces.

As with all Do It Yourself tasks, appropriate preparation and your safety come. Below is a list of materials, protective gear and tiling tools you’ll require to do the job in a safe method and to a high standard:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

How many tiles do you require?

The first step is working out the number of tiles you require, and to do that, you have to calculate the area of the area you’ll be covering. Procedure the height and width of the area then increase the figures.

Make sure to consider the area of any windows, cabinets or doors and deduct this from the total. To conserve confusion, it often assists to knock up a fast sketch with all the measurements made a note of.

As soon as you’re sure of the maths, you can go on and purchase your tiles. The majority of ceramic tile packs cover a square metre, however we ‘d recommend having around 5-10% extra simply in case.


Getting Started

It’s constantly suggested to begin tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s simpler to make sure your pattern is in proportion. It also implies any half-tiles you might require can address completion of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s appealing to begin in the corner, it might leave you with wonky rows and a messy surface by the time you’re done.

Produce Your Design

As we mentioned previously, establish your vertical rows from the middle of your area. You can discover this merely by determining the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a clever method to help you with your row and end tile size. We suggest utilizing a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending upon the size of your wall.

Set out a line of tiles with area between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. Mark each tile and gaps on the rod with a pencil and number them. This way, it’s simple to see the number of you need in each row.

Action 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions across it:

Step 2

Check if the last tile requires to be cut in order to fit once you reach a corner. If less than half a tile will be needed we recommend changing your beginning position, as bigger tiles look far better when completed:

Action 3

If you do require to move your starting point, line up the rod at the original mark and make a new one midway in between two tile marks. This ought to mean your end tiles you need to cut will be more than half a tile broad, which your centre line and centre tile now compare:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod versus your brand-new mark and, using a spirit level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw the line from side to side:

Creating Horizontal Rows

It’s time for the horizontal ones as soon as you’ve established your vertical rows. We suggest utilizing wooden battens secured to the wall as a guide, as they’ll also help avoid slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Step 1

With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you will not have to cut any tiles for the bottom and top rows. If not, merely cut in half the distance in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile large.

Action 2

Measure the range between the two wall marks and include another midway between them:

Step 3

Hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then line up one if its marks with the one you have actually simply made. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row begins. Utilizing a long straight edge and spirit level, draw the line throughout the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Examine behind the wall for any pipelines or cable televisions, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Use another batten for the vertical line.

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re just part-tiling a wall a leading horizontal row loaded with entire tiles produces a much cleaner finish, so we believe it’s really worth investing some time to get it right.

Action 1

Use a gauge rod to work out the position of the lowest horizontal row, then mark the leading row’s position on the wall:

Step 2

Fill the gap between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Remember, you do not desire them too small, so move your leading row if they’re less than half a tile:

Step 3

If you don’t like the idea of cutting tiles and would rather prevent it, inspect to see if the skirting/wall is even. If it’s straight, you can utilize it to align your tiles instead.

Fixing Whole Tiles To A Wall

It’s actually important to start laying your field tiles so the faces are level. Eliminate them and either include or get rid of adhesive so they all sit flush if any are irregular.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles typically indicate you won’t need corner trim. Tile the very first wall right approximately the edge of your area then do the same for the return, enabling the corners to overlap. Make certain to leave a space for grouting, too.

Action 1

Starting in the corner of your 2 battens, scoop up and use some adhesive to the wall using your notched trowel. We’re looking for good ridges here, as they imply an equivalent quantity of adhesive behind the tiles and a much better opportunity of them being straight.

Step 2

Apply the first tile to the corner where your battens meet so its edges are against them, and press its centre strongly to the wall. Add the tiles above and next to it, being sure to leave a gap between them:

Step 3

Add tile spacers to these gaps and adjust the tiles where needed. Press your spacers in securely to make for an even grout and easier joints later:

Step 4

Continue including tiles till you’ve covered all the adhesive, then carry on the procedure for the rest of the wall. Clean any excess adhesive from the tiles using a.
wet sponge as you go– it’s tough to leave as soon as it’s dried:

Step 5.

Scrape and eliminate the vertical batten off any excess adhesive that might have escaped from under the tiles. Then round off the wall with the cut tiles required for the.

Tiling Internal Corners.

Action 1.

The simplest method to measure for cutting is using the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, location another versus the wall, and then mark they overlap in felt idea pen. Otherwise, just take separate measurements at the top and bottom of the area and cut the tile to fit:

Action 2.

Inspect the cut tile fits effectively in the space and adjust with a tile file if required. If you’re going to tile the next wall also you don’t require to be totally precise here, however keep in mind to leave enough room in the corner for grout if you’re only tiling one:

Step 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile using the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to protect it, and utilize joint spacers to keep the gaps if needed:

Step 4.

As soon as you’ve completed your first wall, repeat the process for the next one. Always pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls meet. This can be the difference in between it looking scrappy and a job well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a cool finish on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It is available in a series of colours and products (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps protect your edges from knocks and chips.

Step 1.

Cut your corner trim to the right length utilizing a hacksaw, then apply a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Line up the trim with the tiles from your first wall leaving space for grout later: Vertically use more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, making sure not to knock or loosen up off any tiles from the other wall:

Step 2.

Repeat the process from the very first wall, working far from the corner trim and keeping in mind to leave space for grout. Usage spacers to assist you adjust the tiles should.
you require to, and guarantee the range in between tiles remains constant. Confirm the trim hasn’t moved and adjust if needed as soon as you have actually completed:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend practically completely on the shape of your basin. Measure the wall’s depth in multiples of entire tiles if there’s a straight or even somewhat curved back. A more noticable curved ways you’ll require to cut tiles to fit and allow for a row of half-tiles closest to your basin. If there’s just a minor curve, or the edge is completely straight, you can lay the very first row level to it without having to cut tiles. We recommend using either cardboard or paper spacers to direct you while the adhesive dries, which can then be removed and the sign up with filled with sealant.

Action 1.

Measure the width of your basin in whole tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Step 2.

Set out a row of tiles and include spaces and edging strips at either end. Cut a wooden batten to the same length and mark the tile and sign up with positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, along with your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Action 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall using a level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, fix the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Examine it’s straight using.
a level. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge ought to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Apply the adhesive evenly to the area with a notched trowel. If you doubt, the upper edge must be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 6.

Start in the middle and attach your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. Once you’ve completed that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Action 7.

Utilize a moist cloth to wipe off any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the upper and side edges, then mark and cut it to the best length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and refine with a tile apply for a particularly wise surface:

Step 9.

When your edges are applied, remove the batten and measure the gap listed below. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to permit sealant between the sink and tiles. .
when the adhesive is dry, use the grout and seal the bottom space:

And there you have it! Then we do not know what will, if that doesn’t answer your questions about wall tiling. if you’re still left wanting more however you can constantly see our beneficial How-To videos including TELEVISION handyman Craig Phillips or check out the Help Centre section of our site for more practical hints and tips. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button below:.

The thought of tiling your own walls might be overwhelming possibility, however with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you may believe. Lay out a line of tiles with area between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. If not, just halve the distance between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile broad. Tile the first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the same for the return, enabling the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to permit for sealant between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally utter in place in an array to lid roofs, floors, walls, edges, or other objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes direct to same units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In marginal sense, a tile is a construction tile or thesame object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of in flames clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from easy square tiles to profound or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but other materials are as well as commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and extra composite materials, and stone. Tiling rock is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used upon walls than upon floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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