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We are a certified and qualified tiling agency in Dublin. Having a number of years of experience and skilled commercial tilers in Dublin, we can mesmerize the look of your location with our lovely ceramic tiles.


How To Tile A Wall: A Total Guide To Wall Tiling

The idea of tiling your own walls may be complicated prospect, however with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more simple than you might think. Then do not be as we have actually developed this helpful guide that covers everything there is understand about wall tiling, if you’re a bit intimidated by wall tiling! You can utilize the buttons listed below to skip to the bit you’re interested in or simply scroll to check out the entire lot.

Before Laying Your Tiles

Prior to you start, ensure the surface areas you’ll be working on are tidy, dry and flat. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or fractures. Examine the new plaster is dry prior to you start, remembering it can take a minimum of 2 months to set appropriately, and use Mapei Primer G to prime any porous surfaces.

As with all DIY jobs, proper preparation and your security come. Below is a list of products, protective gear and tiling tools you’ll require to get the job done in a safe way and to a high standard:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

The number of tiles do you require?

The primary step is working out the number of tiles you need, and to do that, you have to compute the area of the area you’ll be covering. Measure the height and width of the space then multiply the figures.

Make certain to consider the area of any windows, cabinets or doors and deduct this from the total. To conserve confusion, it sometimes helps to knock up a quick sketch with all the dimensions documented.

When you’re sure of the mathematics, you can go on and buy your tiles. Most ceramic tile packs cover a square metre, but we ‘d recommend having around 5-10% extra just in case.



It’s always advisable to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s easier to ensure your pattern is balanced. It also indicates any half-tiles you might require can go at completion of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s appealing to begin in the corner, it may leave you with wonky rows and an untidy surface by the time you’re done.

Produce Your Design

As we discussed earlier, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your area. You can discover this merely by determining the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a clever method to help you with your row and end tile size. We advise using a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending upon the size of your wall.

Set out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. Mark each tile and spaces on the rod with a pencil and number them. In this manner, it’s easy to see how many you need in each row.

Step 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions throughout it:

Action 2

Check if the last tile needs to be cut in order to fit once you reach a corner. If less than half a tile will be required we recommend changing your beginning position, as larger tiles look better when finished:

Step 3

Line up the rod at the initial mark and make a brand-new one halfway in between 2 tile marks if you do require to move your beginning point. This need to suggest your end tiles you require to cut will be majority a tile wide, and that your centre line and centre tile now match up:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod against your brand-new mark and, using a spirit level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw a line from side to side:

Developing Horizontal Rows

When you have actually developed your vertical rows, it’s time for the horizontal ones. We recommend utilizing wood battens protected to the wall as a guide, as they’ll also help avoid slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Action 1

With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you will not have to cut any tiles for the leading and bottom rows. If not, merely halve the range between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile large.

Step 2

Step the range in between the two wall marks and include another halfway in between them:

Action 3

If its marks with the one you have actually just made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then align one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row begins. Using a long straight edge and level, draw a line throughout the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Inspect behind the wall for any cables or pipes, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Use another batten for the vertical line.

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re just part-tiling a wall a leading horizontal row full of whole tiles makes for a much cleaner surface, so we believe it’s really worth investing some time to get it.

Step 1

Utilize a gauge rod to work out the position of the most affordable horizontal row, then mark the leading row’s position on the wall:

Step 2

Fill the gap between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Remember, you do not desire them too little, so move your top row if they’re less than half a tile:

Action 3

If you don’t like the idea of cutting tiles and would rather prevent it, check to see if the skirting/wall is even. If it’s straight, you can utilize it to align your tiles rather.

Repairing Entire Tiles To A Wall

It’s truly important to start laying your field tiles so the faces are level. Eliminate them and either add or get rid of adhesive so they all sit flush if any are unequal.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles normally mean you won’t require corner trim. Tile the first wall right up to the edge of your area then do the very same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Make sure to leave a gap for grouting, too.

Action 1

Starting in the corner of your 2 battens, scoop up and use some adhesive to the wall utilizing your notched trowel. We’re looking for good ridges here, as they imply an equal amount of adhesive behind the tiles and a better chance of them being directly.

Step 2

Apply the first tile to the corner where your battens meet so its edges protest them, and push its centre securely to the wall. Add the tiles above and next to it, making sure to leave a gap between them:

Action 3

Add tile spacers to these gaps and change the tiles where essential. Push your spacers in securely to produce an even grout and easier joints later on:

Step 4

Continue adding tiles up until you have actually covered all the adhesive, then carry on the process for the rest of the wall. Clean any excess adhesive from the tiles using a.
wet sponge as you go– it’s hard to leave when it’s dried:

Step 5.

Scrape and eliminate the vertical batten off any excess adhesive that might have escaped from under the tiles. Then finish off the wall with the cut tiles required for the.

Tiling Internal Corners.

Step 1.

The most convenient method to measure for cutting is using the last entire one in the row– hold a tile over it, location another versus the wall, and then mark they overlap in felt pointer pen. Otherwise, just take separate measurements at the top and bottom of the space and cut the tile to fit:

Action 2.

If required, check the cut tile fits correctly in the space and adjust with a tile file. If you’re going to tile the next wall too you do not need to be completely accurate here, but remember to leave enough space in the corner for grout if you’re just tiling one:

Step 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile utilizing the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to secure it, and use joint spacers to keep the gaps if required:

Step 4.

Repeat the process for the next one once you’ve completed your very first wall. Constantly pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls meet. This can be the distinction between it looking scrappy and a task well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a cool surface on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It can be found in a series of materials and colours (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and assists secure your edges from knocks and chips.

Step 1.

Cut your corner trim to the ideal length utilizing a hacksaw, then apply a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Line up the trim with the tiles from your very first wall leaving space for grout later on: Vertically use more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, making sure not to knock or loosen up off any tiles from the other wall:

Step 2.

Repeat the procedure from the very first wall, working far from the corner trim and remembering to leave room for grout. Usage spacers to assist you change the tiles should.
you need to, and ensure the range between tiles stays consistent. Confirm the trim hasn’t moved and adjust if required when you have actually completed:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend practically totally on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight or even somewhat curved back, determine the wall’s depth in multiples of entire tiles.

Step 1.

Step the width of your basin in whole tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Step 2.

Lay out a row of tiles and consist of spaces and edging strips at either end. Cut a wood batten to the very same length and mark the tile and sign up with positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, in addition to your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Step 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall utilizing a level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, repair the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Check it’s straight using.
a level. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge should be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Use the adhesive equally to the area with a notched trowel. If you doubt, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 6.

Start in the center and connect your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. As soon as you’ve finished that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Step 7.

Use a wet cloth to rub out any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the upper and side edges, then mark and cut it to the ideal length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and fine-tune with a tile file for a particularly smart surface:

Step 9.

When your edges are used, get rid of the batten and determine the gap listed below. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to enable sealant between the sink and tiles. Then.
when the adhesive is dry, apply the grout and seal the bottom gap:

If that does not address your concerns about wall tiling then we don’t understand what will. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button listed below:.

The idea of tiling your own walls may be challenging prospect, but with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you might believe. Lay out a line of tiles with area between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. If not, simply cut in half the range between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile wide. Tile the first wall right up to the edge of your area then do the exact same for the return, permitting the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to permit for sealant in between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally unquestionable in place in an array to cover roofs, floors, walls, edges, or further objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes take in hand to similar units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In choice sense, a tile is a construction tile or thesame object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of passionate clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from simple square tiles to obscure or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but additional materials are in addition to commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and new composite materials, and stone. Tiling rock is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used upon walls than on floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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