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There are several tiling companies in Dublin, however it’s always the most essential to trust and choose. Your single click when searching for “local tilers near me” online or calling somebody over the phone can help you find a tiler in Dublin. Yet picking the right tiling system in Dublin can be an overwhelming task. The problem is who to call the Dublin tiling facilities. Do not believe all of you blindly. Modern Tiling may be the ideal option for your tiling needs.
We are a qualified and licensed tiling agency in Dublin. Having several years of experience and experienced commercial tilers in Dublin, we can enthrall the appearance of your place with our beautiful ceramic tiles.
How To Tile A Wall: A Total Guide To Wall Tiling
The thought of tiling your own walls might be challenging possibility, but with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you might think. Then do not be as we’ve created this handy guide that covers whatever there is know about wall tiling, if you’re a bit daunted by wall tiling! You can use the buttons listed below to avoid to the bit you have an interest in or simply scroll to read the whole lot.
Before Laying Your Tiles
Prior to you start, make sure the surfaces you’ll be working on are tidy, flat and dry. Strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or cracks if you’re tiling over wallpaper. Examine the brand-new plaster is dry prior to you start, keeping in mind it can take a minimum of 2 months to set correctly, and use Mapei Primer G to prime any porous surfaces.
Just like all DIY jobs, correct preparation and your safety preceded. Below is a list of materials, protective gear and tiling tools you’ll need to finish the job in a safe way and to a high requirement:
Wall Tiling Preparation
How many tiles do you need?
The initial step is working out the number of tiles you require, and to do that, you need to compute the location of the space you’ll be covering. Procedure the height and width of the space then multiply the figures.
Make sure to factor in the area of any windows, doors or cupboards and subtract this from the total. To save confusion, it in some cases helps to knock up a fast sketch with all the measurements made a note of.
You can go ahead and buy your tiles as soon as you’re sure of the maths. A lot of ceramic tile loads cover a square metre, but we ‘d advise having around 5-10% additional just in case.
It’s constantly suggested to begin tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s much easier to make sure your pattern is in proportion. It likewise suggests any half-tiles you may require can address completion of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s tempting to start in the corner, it might leave you with wonky rows and an unpleasant finish by the time you’re done.
Create Your Style
As we mentioned previously, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your area. You can discover this merely by measuring the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.
A gauge rod is a smart way to help you with your row and end tile size. We advise using a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending on the size of your wall.
Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. Mark each tile and spaces on the rod with a pencil and number them. This way, it’s simple to see the number of you need in each row.
Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions across it:
Once you reach a corner, check if the last tile requires to be cut in order to fit. If less than half a tile will be needed we suggest adjusting your beginning position, as larger tiles look far better when ended up:
If you do require to move your starting point, line up the rod at the original mark and make a new one midway between 2 tile marks. This need to imply your end tiles you require to cut will be majority a tile large, which your centre line and centre tile now match up:
Hold the gauge rod versus your brand-new mark and, utilizing a level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw the line from side to side:
Developing Horizontal Rows
It’s time for the horizontal ones as soon as you’ve established your vertical rows. We recommend utilizing wooden battens secured to the wall as a guide, as they’ll likewise help avoid slippage while the adhesive is setting.
With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you won’t have to cut any tiles for the leading and bottom rows. If not, simply halve the distance between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile broad.
Step the distance between the two wall marks and include another halfway between them:
Hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then align one if its marks with the one you have actually simply made. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row begins. Using a long straight edge and level, draw a line throughout the wall from the mark:
Examine behind the wall for any cables or pipes, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Use another batten for the vertical line.
Part-Tiling A Wall
If you’re just part-tiling a wall a leading horizontal row full of whole tiles makes for a much cleaner surface, so we think it’s really worth investing some time to get it.
Utilize a gauge rod to work out the position of the most affordable horizontal row, then mark the leading row’s position on the wall:
Fill the gap in between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Keep in mind, you do not desire them too little, so move your leading row if they’re less than half a tile:
If you do not like the concept of cutting tiles and would rather avoid it, inspect to see if the skirting/wall is even. Utilize a long, straight batten, levelled with a spirit level, to find the lowest point. You can use it to align your tiles instead if it’s directly. If not, it’s time to get cutting those tiles!
Repairing Whole Tiles To A Wall
It’s truly crucial to begin laying your field tiles so the faces are level. Eliminate them and either add or remove adhesive so they all sit flush if any are unequal.
Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles normally imply you will not require corner trim. Tile the first wall right approximately the edge of your area then do the exact same for the return, enabling the corners to overlap. Be sure to leave a space for grouting, too.
Beginning in the corner of your two battens, scoop up and apply some adhesive to the wall utilizing your notched trowel. Then with a notched trowel, work away from the vertical batten in horizontal strokes holding the blade at around 45 °. We’re looking for excellent ridges here, as they suggest an equal quantity of adhesive behind the tiles and a better possibility of them being straight. Work around one square metre at a time so the adhesive doesn’t dry:
Use the first tile to the corner where your battens meet so its edges protest them, and press its centre strongly to the wall. Add the tiles above and beside it, making certain to leave a space between them:
Include tile spacers to these gaps and adjust the tiles where required. Press your spacers in strongly to produce an even grout and much easier joints later on:
Continue adding tiles until you have actually covered all the adhesive, then carry on the process for the remainder of the wall. Wipe any excess adhesive from the tiles using a.
wet sponge as you go– it’s challenging to get off as soon as it’s dried:
Get rid of the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that might have gotten away from under the tiles. End up off the wall with the cut tiles required for the.
Tiling Internal Corners.
The easiest way to determine for cutting is using the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, place another versus the wall, and then mark they overlap in felt pointer pen. Otherwise, simply take different measurements at the top and bottom of the space and cut the tile to fit:
Check the cut tile fits correctly in the gap and adjust with a tile file if required. If you’re going to tile the next wall also you don’t need to be totally precise here, but keep in mind to leave enough room in the corner for grout if you’re only tiling one:
Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile utilizing the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to protect it, and utilize joint spacers to keep the gaps if needed:
As soon as you have actually finished your very first wall, repeat the process for the next one. Constantly pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls meet. This can be the distinction between it looking scrappy and a task well done:
Tiling External Corners.
For a cool surface on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It is available in a variety of colours and materials (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps protect your edges from knocks and chips.
Cut your corner trim to the best length using a hacksaw, then apply a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Align the trim with the tiles from your very first wall leaving room for grout later: Vertically apply more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, taking care not to loosen up or knock off any tiles from the other wall:
Repeat the procedure from the very first wall, working away from the corner trim and keeping in mind to leave room for grout. Use spacers to assist you change the tiles should.
you require to, and make sure the distance in between tiles stays consistent. Confirm the trim hasn’t moved and readjust if needed once you’ve finished:
Tiling A Splashback.
Tiling a splashback will depend practically completely on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight or even somewhat curved back, measure the wall’s depth in multiples of entire tiles.
Procedure the width of your basin in entire tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:
Set out a row of tiles and include spaces and edging strips at either end. Cut a wooden batten to the same length and mark the tile and sign up with positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, as well as your lower batten for any half-tiles:
Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall utilizing a level:
To cut the bottom row of tiles, repair the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Check it’s straight using.
a level. If you doubt, the upper edge must be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:
Use the adhesive uniformly to the location with a notched trowel. If you doubt, the upper edge must be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:
Start in the center and attach your first tile in line with the batten’s marks. As soon as you’ve completed that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:
Utilize a moist cloth to rub out any excess adhesive:
Apply matching glazed trim to the upper and side edges, then mark and cut it to the right length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and fine-tune with a tile file for an especially wise surface:
Once your edges are applied, remove the batten and measure the gap below. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to allow for sealant between the sink and tiles. .
when the adhesive is dry, use the grout and seal the bottom gap:
If that doesn’t answer your concerns about wall tiling then we don’t know what will. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button below:.
The idea of tiling your own walls may be difficult prospect, but with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more simple than you may believe. Lay out a line of tiles with space between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. If not, simply cut in half the distance between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile wide. Tile the first wall right up to the edge of your area then do the very same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to enable for sealant between the sink and tiles.
Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall
Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally fixed in place in an array to cover roofs, floors, walls, edges, or extra objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes lecture to to thesame units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In other sense, a tile is a construction tile or similar object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of fired clay.
Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from easy square tiles to complex or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but other materials are moreover commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and supplementary composite materials, and stone. Tiling rock is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used on walls than on floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.
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