WHY SELECT ModernTiling

There are a number of tiling companies in Dublin, however it’s constantly the most crucial to trust and choose. Your single click when browsing for “local tilers near me” online or calling somebody over the phone can assist you find a tiler in Dublin. Selecting the best tiling system in Dublin can be a daunting task.

We are a competent and certified tiling firm in Dublin. Having a number of years of experience and knowledgeable commercial tilers in Dublin, we can mesmerize the appearance of your location with our gorgeous ceramic tiles.


How To Tile A Wall: A Total Guide To Wall Tiling

The idea of tiling your own walls may be challenging possibility, but with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you might think. If you’re a bit intimidated by wall tiling then don’t be as we’ve produced this convenient guide that covers whatever there is understand about wall tiling! You can use the buttons listed below to skip to the bit you have an interest in or just scroll to read the whole lot.

Before Laying Your Tiles

Before you start, make certain the surface areas you’ll be working on are tidy, flat and dry. Strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or fractures if you’re tiling over wallpaper. Check the new plaster is dry prior to you begin, remembering it can take a minimum of two months to set properly, and use Mapei Primer G to prime any porous surfaces.

Just like all DIY jobs, proper preparation and your safety preceded. Below is a list of products, protective gear and tiling tools you’ll need to get the job done in a safe method and to a high standard:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

The number of tiles do you need?

The first step is working out the number of tiles you require, and to do that, you have to calculate the area of the area you’ll be covering. Procedure the height and width of the space then increase the figures.

Make sure to consider the location of any cabinets, windows or doors and deduct this from the total. To conserve confusion, it in some cases assists to knock up a fast sketch with all the dimensions jotted down.

As soon as you’re sure of the maths, you can proceed and buy your tiles. Many ceramic tile packs cover a square metre, but we ‘d suggest having around 5-10% extra simply in case.



It’s constantly a good idea to begin tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s simpler to ensure your pattern is in proportion. It also indicates any half-tiles you may need can go at completion of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s tempting to start in the corner, it may leave you with wonky rows and an unpleasant surface by the time you’re done.

Create Your Style

As we pointed out previously, establish your vertical rows from the middle of your space. You can discover this simply by determining the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a wise way to assist you with your row and end tile size. We suggest using a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending on the size of your wall.

Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. Mark each tile and gaps on the rod with a pencil and number them. By doing this, it’s simple to see how many you require in each row.

Action 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions across it:

Action 2

Check if the last tile needs to be cut in order to fit as soon as you reach a corner. If less than half a tile will be needed we suggest changing your beginning position, as bigger tiles look better when finished:

Step 3

If you do need to move your starting point, line up the rod at the initial mark and make a brand-new one halfway in between two tile marks. This need to suggest your end tiles you require to cut will be more than half a tile wide, which your centre line and centre tile now compare:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod versus your brand-new mark and, utilizing a spirit level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw the line from side to side:

Creating Horizontal Rows

It’s time for the horizontal ones when you have actually developed your vertical rows. We suggest utilizing wooden battens protected to the wall as a guide, as they’ll also help avoid slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Step 1

With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you won’t have to cut any tiles for the leading and bottom rows. If not, simply cut in half the range in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile large.

Action 2

Step the range between the two wall marks and include another halfway between them:

Step 3

Hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then line up one if its marks with the one you’ve just made. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row starts. Utilizing a long straight edge and level, draw a line across the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Check behind the wall for any cables or pipes, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Use another batten for the vertical line.

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re just part-tiling a wall a leading horizontal row complete of whole tiles makes for a much cleaner finish, so we believe it’s truly worth investing some time to get it.

Step 1

Use a gauge rod to work out the position of the most affordable horizontal row, then mark the top row’s position on the wall:

Step 2

Fill the space in between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Remember, you don’t desire them too little, so move your top row if they’re less than half a tile:

Action 3

If you don’t like the concept of cutting tiles and would rather avoid it, examine to see if the skirting/wall is even. If it’s straight, you can utilize it to align your tiles rather.

Repairing Whole Tiles To A Wall

It’s actually essential to begin laying your field tiles so the faces are level. Eliminate them and either add or get rid of adhesive so they all sit flush if any are unequal.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles usually imply you will not need corner trim. Tile the very first wall right as much as the edge of your space then do the exact same for the return, permitting the corners to overlap. Make certain to leave a space for grouting, too.

Step 1

Beginning in the corner of your two battens, scoop up and apply some adhesive to the wall using your notched trowel. We’re looking for good ridges here, as they suggest an equivalent quantity of adhesive behind the tiles and a much better chance of them being straight.

Step 2

Use the very first tile to the corner where your battens meet so its edges are against them, and push its centre strongly to the wall. Include the tiles above and next to it, making sure to leave a gap between them:

Action 3

Add tile spacers to these gaps and change the tiles where essential. Push your spacers in strongly to produce an even grout and simpler joints in the future:

Step 4

Continue including tiles up until you have actually covered all the adhesive, then carry on the procedure for the remainder of the wall. Clean any excess adhesive from the tiles utilizing a.
damp sponge as you go– it’s tough to leave as soon as it’s dried:

Step 5.

Remove the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that might have escaped from under the tiles. Complete off the wall with the cut tiles required for the.

Tiling Internal Corners.

Step 1.

The most convenient method to determine for cutting is utilizing the last entire one in the row– hold a tile over it, location another against the wall, and then mark they overlap in felt pointer pen. Otherwise, just take separate measurements at the top and bottom of the area and cut the tile to fit:

Step 2.

If required, inspect the cut tile fits appropriately in the space and adjust with a tile file. If you’re going to tile the next wall as well you don’t require to be completely precise here, however keep in mind to leave enough room in the corner for grout if you’re only tiling one:

Action 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile using the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to secure it, and use joint spacers to keep the gaps if required:

Step 4.

When you’ve finished your first wall, repeat the procedure for the next one. Constantly strive for the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls satisfy. This can be the difference in between it looking scrappy and a job well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a neat surface on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It is available in a series of colours and materials (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and assists secure your edges from knocks and chips.

Step 1.

Cut your corner trim to the best length utilizing a hacksaw, then use a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Line up the trim with the tiles from your very first wall leaving space for grout later: Vertically apply more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, making sure not to knock or loosen off any tiles from the other wall:

Action 2.

Repeat the process from the very first wall, working far from the corner trim and remembering to leave room for grout. Use spacers to assist you change the tiles should.
you require to, and ensure the distance in between tiles remains constant. Double-check the trim hasn’t moved and readjust if required once you’ve ended up:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend nearly totally on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight and even slightly curved back, measure the wall’s depth in multiples of whole tiles. A more pronounced curved methods you’ll require to cut tiles to permit and fit for a row of half-tiles closest to your basin. If there’s only a minor curve, or the edge is totally straight, you can lay the very first row level to it without having to cut tiles. We recommend using either cardboard or paper spacers to direct you while the adhesive dries, which can then be eliminated and the join filled with sealant.

Step 1.

Step the width of your basin in whole tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Action 2.

Set out a row of tiles and consist of spaces and edging strips at either end. Cut a wooden batten to the very same length and mark the tile and join positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, in addition to your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Action 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall using a spirit level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, fix the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Inspect it’s straight utilizing.
a spirit level. If you doubt, the upper edge must be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Apply the adhesive uniformly to the area with a notched trowel. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Action 6.

Start in the center and attach your first tile in line with the batten’s marks. When you have actually ended up that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Step 7.

Use a wet cloth to wipe off any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the side and upper edges, then mark and cut it to the ideal length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and improve with a tile declare a particularly clever surface:

Step 9.

Once your edges are used, eliminate the batten and determine the space below. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to enable sealant in between the sink and tiles. .
when the adhesive is dry, use the grout and seal the bottom gap:

And there you have it! Then we don’t know what will, if that doesn’t answer your concerns about wall tiling. if you’re still left wanting more nevertheless you can always view our helpful How-To videos featuring TELEVISION handyman Craig Phillips or check out the Aid Centre section of our site for more helpful hints and suggestions. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button listed below:.

The idea of tiling your own walls may be challenging possibility, but with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you might think. Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. If not, just cut in half the range in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile large. Tile the first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the exact same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to enable for sealant between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally resolved in place in an array to lid roofs, floors, walls, edges, or new objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes talk to to similar units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In unconventional sense, a tile is a construction tile or same object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of enthusiastic clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from easy square tiles to puzzling or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but new materials are as well as commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and additional composite materials, and stone. Tiling stone is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used upon walls than upon floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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