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How To Tile A Wall: A Complete Guide To Wall Tiling

The thought of tiling your own walls might be difficult prospect, however with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more simple than you might believe. Then don’t be as we’ve created this handy guide that covers whatever there is know about wall tiling, if you’re a bit intimidated by wall tiling! You can use the buttons listed below to avoid to the bit you’re interested in or just scroll to check out the entire lot.

Prior To Laying Your Tiles

Prior to you begin, make certain the surface areas you’ll be dealing with are clean, flat and dry. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or fractures. Inspect the new plaster is dry prior to you begin, bearing in mind it can take a minimum of two months to set appropriately, and use Mapei Guide G to prime any permeable surfaces.

Just like all Do It Yourself tasks, correct preparation and your safety preceded. Below is a list of materials, protective equipment and tiling tools you’ll need to finish the job in a safe method and to a high requirement:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

The number of tiles do you need?

The first step is working out the number of tiles you need, and to do that, you need to compute the location of the space you’ll be covering. Step the height and width of the area then increase the figures.

Make certain to factor in the location of any doors, windows or cabinets and subtract this from the total. To save confusion, it sometimes helps to knock up a quick sketch with all the dimensions documented.

You can go ahead and purchase your tiles when you’re sure of the mathematics. Most ceramic tile loads cover a square metre, but we ‘d advise having around 5-10% additional simply in case.

tiles

Starting

It’s always advisable to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s easier to ensure your pattern is symmetrical. It likewise indicates any half-tiles you might need can address the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s tempting to begin in the corner, it might leave you with wonky rows and an unpleasant surface by the time you’re done.

Produce Your Style

As we mentioned previously, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your area. You can find this merely by determining the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a smart way to assist you with your row and end tile size. We suggest using a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending upon the size of your wall.

Lay out a line of tiles with space between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. Mark each tile and spaces on the rod with a pencil and number them. By doing this, it’s simple to see the number of you need in each row.

Action 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions across it:

Action 2

As soon as you reach a corner, check if the last tile needs to be cut in order to fit. If less than half a tile will be needed we recommend adjusting your beginning position, as bigger tiles look better when completed:

Step 3

Line up the rod at the original mark and make a new one halfway in between 2 tile marks if you do require to move your beginning point. This must indicate your end tiles you need to cut will be over half a tile large, which your centre line and centre tile now match up:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod versus your new mark and, utilizing a spirit level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw the line from side to side:

Creating Horizontal Rows

As soon as you have actually established your vertical rows, it’s time for the horizontal ones. We suggest using wood battens protected to the wall as a guide, as they’ll likewise assist prevent slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Action 1

With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you won’t have to cut any tiles for the bottom and leading rows. If not, just halve the range between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile wide.

Action 2

Procedure the distance between the two wall marks and add another halfway between them:

Step 3

If its marks with the one you have actually simply made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then line up one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row begins. Using a long straight edge and level, draw the line across the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Check behind the wall for any cables or pipelines, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Its top edge should be lined up with the horizontal pencil line, and must be straight. Use another batten for the vertical line. It’s an excellent idea to leave the batten’s nail heads protruding somewhat as they’ll be simpler to get rid of later:

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re just part-tiling a wall a leading horizontal row complete of entire tiles makes for a much cleaner finish, so we believe it’s really worth investing some time to get it.

Action 1

Utilize a gauge rod to exercise the position of the most affordable horizontal row, then mark the top row’s position on the wall:

Step 2

Fill the gap between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Remember, you don’t desire them too small, so move your top row if they’re less than half a tile:

Action 3

If you do not like the idea of cutting tiles and would rather avoid it, examine to see if the skirting/wall is even. Utilize a long, straight batten, levelled with a level, to find the lowest point. If it’s straight, you can use it to align your tiles rather. If not, it’s time to get cutting those tiles!

Repairing Whole Tiles To A Wall

It’s truly crucial to start laying your field tiles so the faces are level. If any are unequal, remove them and either include or get rid of adhesive so they all sit flush.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles normally imply you won’t need corner trim. Tile the very first wall right as much as the edge of your area then do the same for the return, enabling the corners to overlap. Make certain to leave a gap for grouting, too.

Step 1

Starting in the corner of your 2 battens, scoop up and apply some adhesive to the wall using your notched trowel. We’re looking for great ridges here, as they imply an equivalent quantity of adhesive behind the tiles and a better opportunity of them being directly.

Step 2

Use the first tile to the corner where your battens meet so its edges are against them, and press its centre firmly to the wall. Add the tiles above and beside it, making certain to leave a space in between them:


Action 3

Include tile spacers to these spaces and change the tiles where necessary. Push your spacers in strongly to make for an even grout and much easier joints later:

Step 4

Continue adding tiles until you’ve covered all the adhesive, then continue the process for the rest of the wall. Clean any excess adhesive from the tiles utilizing a.
wet sponge as you go– it’s difficult to leave once it’s dried:

Step 5.

Scrape and eliminate the vertical batten off any excess adhesive that may have gotten away from under the tiles. Then round off the wall with the cut tiles needed for the.
gaps:

Tiling Internal Corners.

Action 1.

The easiest method to measure for cutting is utilizing the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, place another against the wall, and then mark they overlap in felt pointer pen. Otherwise, merely take different measurements at the top and bottom of the area and cut the tile to fit:

Action 2.

Inspect the cut tile fits effectively in the space and adjust with a tile file if needed. If you’re going to tile the next wall too you don’t need to be completely precise here, however keep in mind to leave enough space in the corner for grout if you’re only tiling one:

Step 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile utilizing the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to protect it, and utilize joint spacers to keep the gaps if required:

Step 4.

As soon as you have actually finished your very first wall, repeat the procedure for the next one. Constantly pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls meet. This can be the difference in between it looking scrappy and a job well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a cool surface on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It can be found in a variety of colours and materials (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps safeguard your edges from knocks and chips.

Action 1.

Cut your corner trim to the right length utilizing a hacksaw, then use a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Align the trim with the tiles from your first wall leaving room for grout in the future: Vertically use more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, making sure not to knock or loosen off any tiles from the other wall:

Action 2.

Repeat the procedure from the very first wall, working far from the corner trim and keeping in mind to leave space for grout. Use spacers to assist you adjust the tiles should.
you require to, and make sure the distance in between tiles remains constant. Confirm the trim hasn’t moved and adjust if required once you’ve completed:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend almost entirely on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight or even slightly curved back, measure the wall’s depth in multiples of entire tiles.

Action 1.

Step the width of your basin in whole tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Action 2.

Set out a row of tiles and consist of areas and edging strips at either end. Cut a wooden batten to the same length and mark the tile and join positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, along with your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Step 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall utilizing a level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, repair the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Inspect it’s straight utilizing.
a spirit level. If you doubt, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Apply the adhesive uniformly to the location with a notched trowel. If you doubt, the upper edge must be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Action 6.

Start in the center and attach your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. When you’ve finished that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Step 7.

Use a wet cloth to wipe off any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the upper and side edges, then mark and suffice to the best length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and improve with a tile apply for a particularly smart finish:

Step 9.

As soon as your edges are applied, eliminate the batten and determine the space below. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to enable sealant in between the sink and tiles. .
when the adhesive is dry, use the grout and seal the bottom space:

If that does not address your concerns about wall tiling then we don’t know what will. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button below:.

The idea of tiling your own walls might be overwhelming possibility, however with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you might believe. Lay out a line of tiles with space between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. If not, simply halve the range in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile wide. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your area then do the very same for the return, enabling the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to enable for sealant between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally fixed in place in an array to cover roofs, floors, walls, edges, or additional objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes adopt to similar units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In unorthodox sense, a tile is a construction tile or thesame object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of ablaze clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from simple square tiles to puzzling or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but new materials are as well as commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and further composite materials, and stone. Tiling stone is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used on walls than upon floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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