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How To Tile A Wall: A Complete Guide To Wall Tiling

The idea of tiling your own walls may be difficult prospect, but with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you may think. Then don’t be as we have actually developed this helpful guide that covers whatever there is know about wall tiling, if you’re a bit intimidated by wall tiling! You can utilize the buttons below to skip to the bit you have an interest in or just scroll to check out the whole lot.

Before Laying Your Tiles

Before you begin, ensure the surface areas you’ll be working on are tidy, dry and flat. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any cracks or holes. Examine the new plaster is dry before you begin, bearing in mind it can take a minimum of two months to set appropriately, and utilize Mapei Guide G to prime any permeable surfaces.

As with all DIY tasks, appropriate preparation and your safety come. Below is a list of products, protective equipment and tiling tools you’ll require to finish the job in a safe way and to a high requirement:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

The number of tiles do you require?

The first step is working out the number of tiles you require, and to do that, you have to calculate the area of the area you’ll be covering. Procedure the height and width of the area then increase the figures.

Make certain to factor in the location of any windows, doors or cupboards and subtract this from the total. To save confusion, it often helps to knock up a fast sketch with all the measurements made a note of.

You can go ahead and purchase your tiles as soon as you’re sure of the mathematics. The majority of ceramic tile loads cover a square metre, however we ‘d suggest having around 5-10% additional simply in case.

tiles

Starting

It’s always suggested to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s simpler to make sure your pattern is balanced. It also suggests any half-tiles you may require can go at the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s tempting to start in the corner, it might leave you with wonky rows and an untidy finish by the time you’re done.

Create Your Style

As we mentioned earlier, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your space. You can find this simply by determining the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a smart way to help you with your row and end tile size. We recommend using a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending upon the size of your wall.

Lay out a line of tiles with area in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. Mark each tile and gaps on the rod with a pencil and number them. In this manner, it’s easy to see how many you need in each row.

Action 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions across it:

Action 2

When you reach a corner, check if the last tile requires to be cut in order to fit. If less than half a tile will be needed we suggest adjusting your beginning position, as larger tiles look far better when completed:

Step 3

If you do require to move your starting point, line up the rod at the original mark and make a new one midway between two tile marks. This should mean your end tiles you require to cut will be over half a tile large, which your centre line and centre tile now compare:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod versus your brand-new mark and, using a spirit level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw a line from side to side:

Creating Horizontal Rows

When you have actually established your vertical rows, it’s time for the horizontal ones. We suggest using wood battens protected to the wall as a guide, as they’ll likewise assist prevent slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Action 1

Align your gauge rod, vertical line and skirting/floor, then pencil mark alongside the rod’s leading tile mark. Do this all the way up the wall following the vertical line till the rod touches the ceiling. With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you will not have to cut any tiles for the top and bottom rows. If not, merely halve the range between the wall and rod marks and, just like the vertical rows, make sure it’s majority a tile large. If they’re less than half a tile’s width, simply use the next mark down on the rod:

Step 2

Procedure the distance in between the two wall marks and include another halfway between them:

Step 3

If its marks with the one you’ve just made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then align one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row begins. Utilizing a long straight edge and spirit level, draw a line throughout the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Examine behind the wall for any cable televisions or pipes, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Its leading edge should be aligned with the horizontal pencil line, and must be straight. Use another batten for the vertical line. It’s a great concept to leave the batten’s nail heads sticking out slightly as they’ll be much easier to get rid of later on:

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re just part-tiling a wall a leading horizontal row full of whole tiles makes for a much cleaner surface, so we believe it’s really worth investing some time to get it right.

Step 1

Use a gauge rod to exercise the position of the lowest horizontal row, then mark the top row’s position on the wall:

Action 2

Fill the gap between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Remember, you do not want them too small, so move your leading row if they’re less than half a tile:

Step 3

If you don’t like the idea of cutting tiles and would rather avoid it, inspect to see if the skirting/wall is even. If it’s directly, you can utilize it to align your tiles rather.

Repairing Whole Tiles To A Wall

It’s truly essential to start laying your field tiles so the faces are level. If any are irregular, eliminate them and either include or eliminate adhesive so they all sit flush.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles normally indicate you will not require corner trim. Tile the first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the same for the return, enabling the corners to overlap. Be sure to leave a space for grouting, too.

Step 1

Starting in the corner of your 2 battens, scoop up and use some adhesive to the wall using your notched trowel. With a notched trowel, work away from the vertical batten in horizontal strokes holding the blade at around 45 °. We’re looking for great ridges here, as they mean an equivalent amount of adhesive behind the tiles and a better chance of them being straight. Work around one square metre at a time so the adhesive doesn’t dry:

Step 2

Use the very first tile to the corner where your battens satisfy so its edges protest them, and push its centre securely to the wall. Include the tiles above and beside it, making certain to leave a gap between them:


Step 3

Include tile spacers to these spaces and adjust the tiles where required. Push your spacers in securely to produce an even grout and much easier joints later:

Step 4

Continue including tiles till you have actually covered all the adhesive, then continue the process for the remainder of the wall. Wipe any excess adhesive from the tiles utilizing a.
damp sponge as you go– it’s hard to leave once it’s dried:

Step 5.

Eliminate the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that might have escaped from under the tiles. Then round off the wall with the cut tiles required for the.
spaces:

Tiling Internal Corners.

Step 1.

The simplest way to measure for cutting is utilizing the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, place another against the wall, and then mark they overlap in felt tip pen. Otherwise, merely take different measurements at the top and bottom of the space and cut the tile to fit:

Step 2.

If required, examine the cut tile fits appropriately in the gap and change with a tile file. If you’re going to tile the next wall too you don’t require to be totally precise here, however keep in mind to leave enough space in the corner for grout if you’re only tiling one:

Action 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile utilizing the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to secure it, and use joint spacers to keep the gaps if needed:

Step 4.

As soon as you have actually finished your first wall, repeat the procedure for the next one. Always pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls fulfill. This can be the difference between it looking scrappy and a job well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a cool finish on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It comes in a range of colours and products (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and assists secure your edges from knocks and chips.

Action 1.

Cut your corner trim to the right length using a hacksaw, then use a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Align the trim with the tiles from your first wall leaving space for grout later on: Vertically apply more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, taking care not to loosen up or knock off any tiles from the other wall:

Action 2.

Repeat the procedure from the very first wall, working far from the corner trim and keeping in mind to leave room for grout. Use spacers to assist you adjust the tiles should.
you need to, and guarantee the distance in between tiles stays consistent. Double-check the trim hasn’t moved and adjust if needed when you’ve completed:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend practically entirely on the shape of your basin. Determine the wall’s depth in multiples of entire tiles if there’s a straight or even slightly curved back. A more noticable curved methods you’ll need to cut tiles to permit and fit for a row of half-tiles closest to your basin. If there’s only a minor curve, or the edge is absolutely straight, you can lay the first row level to it without having to cut tiles. We suggest utilizing either cardboard or paper spacers to assist you while the adhesive dries, which can then be gotten rid of and the sign up with filled with sealant.

Step 1.

Step the width of your basin in entire tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Action 2.

Lay out a row of tiles and include spaces and edging strips at either end. Cut a wood batten to the same length and mark the tile and sign up with positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, in addition to your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Action 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall using a level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, fix the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Examine it’s straight utilizing.
a spirit level. If you doubt, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Use the adhesive equally to the location with a notched trowel. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 6.

Start in the center and connect your first tile in line with the batten’s marks. As soon as you have actually completed that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Action 7.

Utilize a wet fabric to rub out any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the upper and side edges, then mark and cut it to the right length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and improve with a tile apply for an especially clever surface:

Step 9.

When your edges are applied, get rid of the batten and determine the gap below. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to allow for sealant in between the sink and tiles. Then.
when the adhesive is dry, apply the grout and seal the bottom gap:

And there you have it! If that doesn’t answer your questions about wall tiling then we do not understand what will. if you’re still left wanting more nevertheless you can always view our useful How-To videos including TELEVISION handyman Craig Phillips or go to the Assistance Centre section of our site for more handy hints and tips. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button below:.

The idea of tiling your own walls might be daunting possibility, but with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more simple than you might believe. Lay out a line of tiles with area in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. If not, merely halve the range in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile large. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your area then do the very same for the return, enabling the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to enable for sealant between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally pure in place in an array to lid roofs, floors, walls, edges, or further objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes refer to similar units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In substitute sense, a tile is a construction tile or same object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of burning clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from simple square tiles to rarefied or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but other materials are afterward commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and additional composite materials, and stone. Tiling stone is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used upon walls than upon floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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