WHY SELECT ModernTiling.ie

There are several tiling business in Dublin, however it’s constantly the most important to trust and select. Your single click when searching for “local tilers near me” online or calling someone over the phone can help you find a tiler in Dublin. Yet picking the ideal tiling system in Dublin can be a challenging job. The issue is who to get in touch with the Dublin tiling centers. Don’t believe all of you blindly. Modern Tiling might be the ideal option for your tiling needs.

We are a licensed and qualified tiling company in Dublin. Having a number of years of experience and knowledgeable business tilers in Dublin, we can enthrall the look of your place with our lovely ceramic tiles.


How To Tile A Wall: A Total Guide To Wall Tiling

The thought of tiling your own walls might be complicated possibility, but with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you might believe. If you’re a bit intimidated by wall tiling then do not be as we have actually developed this helpful guide that covers whatever there is understand about wall tiling! You can utilize the buttons below to skip to the bit you have an interest in or simply scroll to read the entire lot.

Before Laying Your Tiles

Prior to you begin, ensure the surface areas you’ll be working on are tidy, dry and flat. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or fractures. Examine the new plaster is dry prior to you begin, remembering it can take at least 2 months to set effectively, and utilize Mapei Guide G to prime any porous surface areas.

As with all Do It Yourself jobs, appropriate preparation and your security come. Below is a list of products, protective gear and tiling tools you’ll require to do the job in a safe way and to a high requirement:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

The number of tiles do you need?

The primary step is working out the number of tiles you need, and to do that, you have to calculate the area of the space you’ll be covering. Procedure the height and width of the space then increase the figures.

Make sure to factor in the location of any cupboards, windows or doors and subtract this from the total. To save confusion, it in some cases helps to knock up a fast sketch with all the dimensions written down.

You can go ahead and buy your tiles as soon as you’re sure of the maths. A lot of ceramic tile loads cover a square metre, but we ‘d advise having around 5-10% extra simply in case.



It’s always advisable to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s much easier to ensure your pattern is symmetrical. It likewise indicates any half-tiles you might need can go at the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s appealing to begin in the corner, it might leave you with wonky rows and an untidy finish by the time you’re done.

Develop Your Design

As we discussed previously, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your space. You can discover this simply by measuring the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a smart method to help you with your row and end tile size. We recommend using a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending on the size of your wall.

Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. Mark each tile and gaps on the rod with a pencil and number them. By doing this, it’s simple to see how many you need in each row.

Step 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions throughout it:

Step 2

Check if the last tile requires to be cut in order to fit when you reach a corner. If less than half a tile will be required we suggest changing your beginning position, as bigger tiles look much better when completed:

Step 3

Line up the rod at the initial mark and make a new one midway between 2 tile marks if you do require to move your beginning point. This ought to indicate your end tiles you need to cut will be majority a tile wide, and that your centre line and centre tile now compare:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod versus your new mark and, using a spirit level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw a line from side to side:

Creating Horizontal Rows

When you’ve developed your vertical rows, it’s time for the horizontal ones. We recommend utilizing wooden battens protected to the wall as a guide, as they’ll also help prevent slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Step 1

With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you won’t have to cut any tiles for the bottom and top rows. If not, just halve the range in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile wide.

Step 2

Step the distance in between the two wall marks and include another midway between them:

Action 3

If its marks with the one you’ve just made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then align one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row starts. Utilizing a long straight edge and level, draw the line throughout the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Inspect behind the wall for any cables or pipelines, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Its top edge needs to be lined up with the horizontal pencil line, and must be straight. Utilize another batten for the vertical line. It’s an excellent idea to leave the batten’s nail heads standing out slightly as they’ll be much easier to remove later on:

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re only part-tiling a wall a top horizontal row filled with whole tiles produces a much cleaner surface, so we think it’s really worth investing a long time to get it right.

Step 1

Utilize a gauge rod to exercise the position of the lowest horizontal row, then mark the leading row’s position on the wall:

Step 2

Fill the gap in between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Keep in mind, you do not want them too little, so move your leading row if they’re less than half a tile:

Step 3

If you don’t like the concept of cutting tiles and would rather avoid it, inspect to see if the skirting/wall is even. Utilize a long, straight batten, levelled with a level, to discover the lowest point. If it’s straight, you can utilize it to align your tiles rather. If not, it’s time to get cutting those tiles!

Repairing Whole Tiles To A Wall

It’s actually crucial to start laying your field tiles so the faces are level. Eliminate them and either include or remove adhesive so they all sit flush if any are uneven.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles normally mean you won’t require corner trim. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the exact same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Be sure to leave a gap for grouting, too.

Step 1

Beginning in the corner of your 2 battens, scoop up and use some adhesive to the wall using your notched trowel. Then with a notched trowel, work away from the vertical batten in horizontal strokes holding the blade at around 45 °. We’re searching for great ridges here, as they imply an equal amount of adhesive behind the tiles and a much better chance of them being straight. Work around one square metre at a time so the adhesive does not dry out:

Action 2

Apply the first tile to the corner where your battens fulfill so its edges are against them, and push its centre firmly to the wall. Add the tiles above and next to it, being sure to leave a gap in between them:

Action 3

Add tile spacers to these spaces and change the tiles where necessary. Push your spacers in strongly to produce an even grout and simpler joints later on:

Step 4

Continue adding tiles up until you’ve covered all the adhesive, then carry on the procedure for the remainder of the wall. Clean any excess adhesive from the tiles using a.
wet sponge as you go– it’s difficult to leave once it’s dried:

Step 5.

Remove the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that may have gotten away from under the tiles. Then finish off the wall with the cut tiles required for the.

Tiling Internal Corners.

Action 1.

The most convenient way to measure for cutting is using the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, location another against the wall, and after that mark they overlap in felt tip pen. Otherwise, just take separate measurements at the top and bottom of the space and cut the tile to fit:

Step 2.

If required, inspect the cut tile fits appropriately in the gap and change with a tile file. If you’re going to tile the next wall too you do not need to be absolutely precise here, however remember to leave enough room in the corner for grout if you’re just tiling one:

Action 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile utilizing the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to protect it, and use joint spacers to keep the gaps if required:

Step 4.

Repeat the process for the next one once you’ve completed your first wall. Always strive for the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls meet. This can be the difference in between it looking scrappy and a task well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a neat surface on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It comes in a series of colours and products (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and assists protect your edges from knocks and chips.

Action 1.

Cut your corner trim to the right length using a hacksaw, then apply a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Align the trim with the tiles from your first wall leaving room for grout in the future: Vertically apply more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, making sure not to knock or loosen off any tiles from the other wall:

Step 2.

Repeat the process from the first wall, working away from the corner trim and remembering to leave room for grout. Use spacers to help you adjust the tiles should.
you require to, and guarantee the range between tiles remains consistent. Double-check the trim hasn’t moved and adjust if required once you have actually ended up:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend nearly entirely on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight or even slightly curved back, determine the wall’s depth in multiples of entire tiles.

Step 1.

Measure the width of your basin in entire tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Step 2.

Set out a row of tiles and include spaces and edging strips at either end. Cut a wood batten to the very same length and mark the tile and join positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, as well as your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Step 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall using a spirit level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, repair the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Check it’s straight utilizing.
a level. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Apply the adhesive evenly to the location with a notched trowel. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge ought to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Action 6.

Start in the middle and attach your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. Once you’ve completed that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Action 7.

Use a wet fabric to wipe off any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the upper and side edges, then mark and suffice to the ideal length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and fine-tune with a tile apply for a particularly wise finish:

Step 9.

Once your edges are applied, get rid of the batten and determine the gap listed below. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to allow for sealant between the sink and tiles. .
when the adhesive is dry, apply the grout and seal the bottom space:

If that does not address your concerns about wall tiling then we don’t know what will. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button listed below:.

The idea of tiling your own walls might be difficult prospect, but with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more simple than you might think. Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. If not, simply cut in half the distance between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile broad. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the exact same for the return, enabling the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to permit for sealant in between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally given in place in an array to lid roofs, floors, walls, edges, or additional objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes attend to to thesame units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In another sense, a tile is a construction tile or similar object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of ablaze clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from easy square tiles to puzzling or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but extra materials are also commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and extra composite materials, and stone. Tiling rock is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used upon walls than on floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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