WHY SELECT ModernTiling.ie

There are several tiling business in Dublin, but it’s always the most important to trust and select. Your single click when searching for “local tilers near me” online or calling someone over the phone can assist you discover a tiler in Dublin. Yet selecting the ideal tiling system in Dublin can be a complicated task. The problem is who to call the Dublin tiling facilities. Don’t think all of you blindly. Modern Tiling might be the ideal choice for your tiling requires.

We are a licensed and qualified tiling company in Dublin. Having numerous years of experience and skilled commercial tilers in Dublin, we can mesmerize the appearance of your place with our lovely ceramic tiles.


How To Tile A Wall: A Complete Guide To Wall Tiling

The idea of tiling your own walls might be difficult possibility, however with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you might think. Then don’t be as we have actually developed this helpful guide that covers whatever there is know about wall tiling, if you’re a bit intimidated by wall tiling! You can utilize the buttons below to avoid to the bit you have an interest in or simply scroll to check out the entire lot.

Prior To Laying Your Tiles

Before you begin, make sure the surface areas you’ll be dealing with are clean, flat and dry. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any cracks or holes. Check the new plaster is dry prior to you start, remembering it can take a minimum of two months to set properly, and use Mapei Primer G to prime any permeable surfaces.

Similar to all Do It Yourself jobs, correct preparation and your safety preceded. Below is a list of products, protective equipment and tiling tools you’ll need to get the job done in a safe way and to a high requirement:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

How many tiles do you need?

The primary step is exercising how many tiles you need, and to do that, you need to calculate the area of the area you’ll be covering. Measure the height and width of the space then multiply the figures.

Make certain to consider the location of any cabinets, doors or windows and deduct this from the total. To conserve confusion, it in some cases assists to knock up a fast sketch with all the dimensions documented.

You can go ahead and buy your tiles when you’re sure of the mathematics. A lot of ceramic tile loads cover a square metre, however we ‘d recommend having around 5-10% extra simply in case.



It’s constantly advisable to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s easier to ensure your pattern is balanced. It also indicates any half-tiles you might require can go at the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s appealing to begin in the corner, it might leave you with wonky rows and an untidy finish by the time you’re done.

Produce Your Design

As we discussed previously, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your area. You can discover this just by measuring the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a smart method to assist you with your row and end tile size. We recommend using a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending upon the size of your wall.

Set out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. Mark each tile and gaps on the rod with a pencil and number them. This way, it’s easy to see the number of you need in each row.

Step 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions across it:

Step 2

Once you reach a corner, check if the last tile needs to be cut in order to fit. If less than half a tile will be required we suggest adjusting your starting position, as bigger tiles look better when ended up:

Step 3

Line up the rod at the initial mark and make a brand-new one halfway between 2 tile marks if you do need to move your beginning point. This must imply your end tiles you require to cut will be over half a tile broad, and that your centre line and centre tile now compare:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod against your brand-new mark and, utilizing a spirit level to make ensure it’s straight, draw the line from side to side:

Creating Horizontal Rows

When you have actually established your vertical rows, it’s time for the horizontal ones. We recommend using wooden battens protected to the wall as a guide, as they’ll likewise help avoid slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Step 1

With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you will not have to cut any tiles for the bottom and leading rows. If not, just cut in half the range in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile wide.

Action 2

Step the range in between the two wall marks and include another midway in between them:

Action 3

If its marks with the one you’ve simply made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then align one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row starts. Using a long straight edge and level, draw a line across the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Examine behind the wall for any cable televisions or pipelines, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Its leading edge ought to be aligned with the horizontal pencil line, and ought to be straight. Then use another batten for the vertical line. It’s a great idea to leave the batten’s nail heads sticking out somewhat as they’ll be simpler to eliminate later on:

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re just part-tiling a wall a leading horizontal row filled with entire tiles produces a much cleaner finish, so we believe it’s really worth investing a long time to get it right.

Step 1

Use a gauge rod to exercise the position of the lowest horizontal row, then mark the leading row’s position on the wall:

Action 2

Fill the space in between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Remember, you don’t want them too little, so move your leading row if they’re less than half a tile:

Step 3

If you do not like the idea of cutting tiles and would rather avoid it, examine to see if the skirting/wall is even. If it’s straight, you can use it to align your tiles instead.

Fixing Whole Tiles To A Wall

It’s truly crucial to begin laying your field tiles so the faces are level. Eliminate them and either include or remove adhesive so they all sit flush if any are unequal.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles typically mean you will not require corner trim. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your area then do the exact same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Be sure to leave a gap for grouting, too.

Step 1

Starting in the corner of your two battens, scoop up and apply some adhesive to the wall utilizing your notched trowel. We’re looking for excellent ridges here, as they indicate an equal quantity of adhesive behind the tiles and a much better chance of them being straight.

Step 2

Use the very first tile to the corner where your battens fulfill so its edges protest them, and push its centre strongly to the wall. Include the tiles above and beside it, making sure to leave a gap in between them:

Step 3

Add tile spacers to these gaps and adjust the tiles where essential. Press your spacers in securely to make for an even grout and easier joints later:

Step 4

Continue adding tiles until you have actually covered all the adhesive, then continue the procedure for the remainder of the wall. Wipe any excess adhesive from the tiles using a.
wet sponge as you go– it’s difficult to leave as soon as it’s dried:

Step 5.

Get rid of the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that may have left from under the tiles. Complete off the wall with the cut tiles required for the.

Tiling Internal Corners.

Step 1.

The easiest method to determine for cutting is utilizing the last entire one in the row– hold a tile over it, place another against the wall, and after that mark they overlap in felt idea pen. Otherwise, simply take different measurements at the top and bottom of the area and cut the tile to fit:

Action 2.

If needed, examine the cut tile fits appropriately in the space and change with a tile file. If you’re going to tile the next wall also you don’t need to be absolutely precise here, but keep in mind to leave enough room in the corner for grout if you’re only tiling one:

Action 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile utilizing the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to secure it, and utilize joint spacers to keep the spaces if required:

Step 4.

Once you have actually finished your very first wall, repeat the process for the next one. Constantly pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls fulfill. This can be the difference in between it looking scrappy and a task well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a cool surface on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It comes in a series of materials and colours (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and assists safeguard your edges from knocks and chips.

Action 1.

Cut your corner trim to the ideal length utilizing a hacksaw, then use a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Align the trim with the tiles from your first wall leaving room for grout later on: Vertically use more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, taking care not to knock or loosen off any tiles from the other wall:

Action 2.

Repeat the procedure from the first wall, working far from the corner trim and remembering to leave room for grout. Use spacers to assist you change the tiles should.
you need to, and guarantee the range between tiles remains consistent. Double-check the trim hasn’t moved and adjust if needed as soon as you have actually finished:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend practically totally on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight or even a little curved back, determine the wall’s depth in multiples of whole tiles.

Step 1.

Step the width of your basin in entire tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Action 2.

Set out a row of tiles and include spaces and edging strips at either end. Cut a wooden batten to the very same length and mark the tile and join positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, in addition to your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Action 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall utilizing a level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, fix the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Inspect it’s straight utilizing.
a spirit level. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge should be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Use the adhesive evenly to the location with a notched trowel. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge should be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 6.

Start in the center and connect your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. Once you have actually completed that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Action 7.

Use a wet cloth to wipe off any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the upper and side edges, then mark and suffice to the ideal length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and refine with a tile declare a particularly wise surface:

Step 9.

Once your edges are used, get rid of the batten and measure the space below. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to allow for sealant between the sink and tiles. Then.
when the adhesive is dry, apply the grout and seal the bottom gap:

And there you have it! Then we don’t know what will, if that doesn’t answer your questions about wall tiling. if you’re still left desiring more however you can constantly enjoy our helpful How-To videos featuring TELEVISION handyman Craig Phillips or visit the Aid Centre section of our website for more valuable hints and ideas. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button below:.

The idea of tiling your own walls might be difficult prospect, but with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you may think. Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. If not, merely cut in half the distance in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile wide. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your area then do the very same for the return, enabling the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to allow for sealant in between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally resolved in place in an array to cover roofs, floors, walls, edges, or other objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes take up to thesame units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In marginal sense, a tile is a construction tile or similar object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of in flames clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from easy square tiles to technical or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but supplementary materials are as a consequence commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and new composite materials, and stone. Tiling rock is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used on walls than on floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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