WHY SELECT Modern Tiling
There are a number of tiling businesses in Dublin, but it’s always the most essential to find the ones to trust. Your single click when looking for local tilers near me online or calling someone over the phone can assist you find a tiler in Dublin. Selecting the ideal tiling system in Dublin can be a difficult job. The problem is who to get in touch with the Dublin tiling facilities. Don’t believe all of you blindly. Modern Tiling might be the perfect option for your tiling requirements.
We are a certified and licensed tiling agency in Dublin. Having a number of years of experience and competent industrial tilers in Dublin, we can mesmerise the look of your place with our gorgeous ceramic tiles.
How To Tile A Wall: A Complete Guide To Wall Tiling
When it comes to tiling your walls, it may seem like a daunting task at first. However, with proper preparation and the right tools, it’s much simpler than you may anticipate. Then do not be as we’ve created this useful guide that covers everything there is to understand about wall tiling, if you’re a bit intimidated by wall tiling! You can utilise the buttons below to skip to the bit you have an interest in or merely scroll to check out the entire lot.
Before Laying Your Tiles
Prior to you begin, make sure the surface areas you’ll be working on are clean, dry and flat. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any cracks or holes. Before you start, make sure to check the new plaster for dryness. Keep in mind that it can take a minimum of 2 months for it to set properly. Additionally, utilise Mapei Primer G to prime any surfaces that are permeable.
As with all DIY tasks, proper preparation and your safety come. For a safe and top-notch tiling job, it’s crucial to have the following materials, protective gear, and tiling tools at your disposal.
Materials: Wall tiles, Tile Adhesive, Grout
Protective Kit: Safety Goggles or Glasses, Dust mask, Latex Grip Safety Gloves
Tools: Notched trowel, Spirit level, Tile spacers, Drill with ceramic/masonry bit, Tile cutter, Tile nippers, Grout remover, Grout float, Mixing bucket, Pile marker/pencil, Rubber Mallet, Hammer, Masonry nails, Hacksaw, Cold chisel, Masking tape, Cloth.
Wall Tiling Preparation
The number of tiles do you require?
The initial step is exercising how many tiles you need, and to do that, you have to calculate the area of the area you’ll be covering. Step the height and width of the space then multiply the figures.
Make sure to factor in the area of any cabinets, doors or windows and deduct this from the total. To save confusion, it in some cases assists to knock up a quick sketch with all the dimensions documented.
When you ensure the mathematics, you can proceed and buy your tiles. Most ceramic tile loads cover a square metre, however we ‘d recommend having around 5-10% additional simply in case.
Starting
For a more balanced pattern, it is recommended to start tiling the grid from the centre of the wall. This approach ensures that any half-tiles needed can be neatly placed at the end of each row, maintaining a consistent size throughout. Although it may be tempting to begin in the corner, doing so could result in uneven rows and a less polished finish.
Produce Your Style
As we pointed out previously, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your space. You can discover this just by measuring the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.
A gauge rod is a smart way to assist you with your row and end tile size. We recommend using a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending upon the size of your wall.
Lay out a line of the tiles in a row, leaving gaps between each one. Align the batten edge with the first tile. Use a pencil to mark each tile and gap on the rod, assigning them with numbers. By doing this, it’s simple to see the number you need in each row.
Action 1
Hold the gauge rod parallel to the centre of your wall and proceed to mark the tile positions across it:
Action 2
Check if the last tile needs to be cut in order to fit when you reach a corner. If less than half a tile will be required we recommend changing your beginning position, as bigger tiles look far better when completed:
Action 3
To begin, position the rod so that it lines up with the first mark. Then, generate a new mark precisely in the middle of two existing tile marks. By doing this, you ensure that the tiles you need to cut at the end will be slightly wider than half a tile. This alignment will also ensure that your centre line and centre tile are now perfectly matched.
Action 4
Compare the gauge rod to your new mark, then, using a spirit level to ensure straightness, draw a line horizontally:
Creating Horizontal Rows
It’s time for the horizontal ones once you have actually established your vertical rows. To prevent slippage during adhesive setting, we recommend employing wooden battens that are secured to the wall as a guide.
Action 1
With some fortune, the alignment of the wall and rod lines should be seamless, leaving no need for tile cutting in the top and bottom rows. Alternatively, you can divide the distance between the wall and rod marks by two. When creating the horizontal rows, ensure that it is wider than half of a tile.
Action 2
Step the distance between the two marks on the wall and insert an additional mark right in the middle:
Action 3
If its marks with the one you have actually just made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then line up one. Position the rod’s foot at a new marking, aligned horizontally. This will serve as the starting point for your horizontal row. With the help of a straight edge and level tool, draw a line across the wall, intersecting the mark you made.
Action 4
Check behind the wall for any pipes or cable televisions, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Use another batten for the vertical line.
Part-Tiling A Wall
When it comes to partially tiling a wall, taking the extra time to ensure a top horizontal row filled with complete tiles will result in a smoother and neater surface. Therefore, we strongly recommend dedicating some time to achieve this.
Step 1
Use a gauge rod to work out the position of the most affordable horizontal row, then mark the leading row’s position on the wall:
Step 2
To fill the gap between the bottom row and skirting/floor, cut tiles can be used. Keep in mind to avoid using tiles that are too small, as it may be necessary to adjust the top row if they measure less than half a tile.
Step 3
In case the thought of cutting tiles doesn’t appeal to you and you want to avoid it altogether, take a moment to assess the evenness of the skirting or wall. If it happens to be straight, you can use it as a guide to align your tiles instead.
Fixing Whole Tiles To A Wall
It’s really crucial to begin laying your field tiles so the faces are level. If any are irregular, remove them and either include or get rid of adhesive so they all sit flush.
Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles typically imply you won’t need corner trim. Begin by tiling the initial wall completely to the edge of your space, then repeat this process for the adjacent wall, ensuring that the corners overlap. Make certain to leave a gap for grouting, too.
Step 1
Begin by applying adhesive to the wall, starting at the intersection of the two battens. Use your notched trowel to scoop up and spread the adhesive. As you work, use horizontal strokes and hold the trowel at a 45° angle away from the vertical batten. The goal is to create ridges in the adhesive, indicating that there is enough behind the tiles and improving the chances of them being aligned correctly. To prevent the adhesive from drying, focus on working on one square metre at a time:
Step 2
Use the first tile from the corner where the battens meet, ensuring its edges align with the battens, and firmly press its centre against the wall. Add the tiles above and next to it, making sure to leave a space between them:
Step 3
Include tile spacers to these spaces and adjust the tiles where essential. Press your spacers in securely to make for an even grout and easier joints later on:
Step 4
Continue adding tiles until the entire surface is covered with adhesive, and then repeat this process for the remaining walls. Wipe any excess adhesive from the tiles using a wet sponge as you go. It’s difficult to leave once it’s dried:
Step 5.
Remove any excess adhesive that may have been left beneath the tiles by carefully scraping off the vertical batten. Finish off the wall by filling in the gaps with the appropriately cut tiles.
Tiling Internal Corners.
Action 1.
The most convenient way to measure for cutting is using the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, locate another against the wall, and after that mark they overlap in felt tip pen. Otherwise, you can simply measure the top and bottom of the desired area separately, and then cut the tile accordingly to ensure a perfect fit.
Action 2.
Examine the cut tile fits correctly in the space and adjust with a tile file if needed. If you’re going to tile the next wall too you don’t require to be completely accurate here, however keep in mind to leave enough space in the corner for grout if you’re just tiling one:
Action 3.
Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile utilising the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it is level, securely press it into position, and if necessary, use joint spacers to maintain the desired spacing:
Action 4.
Repeat the procedure for the next one as soon as you have actually completed your very first wall. Go an extra mile to achieve a perfectly tidy and seamless grouted joint at the intersection of the two walls. This can be the distinction between it looking scrappy and a task well done:
Tiling External Corners.
For a cool finish on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It comes in a variety of colours and products (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps safeguard your edges from knocks and chips.
Step 1.
First, use a hacksaw to trim your corner trim to the desired length. Apply adhesive to the return wall and firmly press the trim in place. Align the trim with the tiles of the adjacent wall, leaving room for grout later on. To secure the trim even further, use a notched trowel to vertically apply more adhesive to the return wall while being careful not to disturb or dislodge any tiles from the other wall.
Step 2.
Repeat the procedure from the first wall, working far from the corner trim and remembering to leave space for grout. Usage spacers to help you adjust the tiles should.
Ensure the distance between tiles remains constant. Verify the trim hasn’t moved and adjust if needed when you’ve ended up:
Tiling A Splashback.
Tiling a splashback will depend practically entirely on the shape of your basin. Measure the depth of the wall when it has a straight or slightly curved back, use the measurement of multiple complete tiles.
Step 1.
Procedure the width of your basin in whole tiles. After that, mark the centre point on the wall:
Step 2.
Lay out a line of tiles, leaving gaps and adding trim pieces to both ends for a refined finish. Cut a wooden batten to the exact same length and mark the tile and sign up with positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, in addition to your lower batten for any half-tiles:
Step 3.
Use a level to draw a vertical line starting from the centre point and extending upward along the wall:
Step 4.
To cut the bottom row of tiles, position the batten in the vertical line’s midpoint and secure it to the wall using 50mm masonry nails. Make sure it is straight by using a level.
Step 5.
Use the adhesive equally to the area with a notched trowel. If you are unsure, the upper edge should be approximately half the width of a tile away from the top of the basin:
Step 6.
Start in the centre and connect your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. Once you have actually finished that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:
Step 7.
Utilise a damp fabric to wipe off any excess adhesive:
Step 8.
Apply matching glazed trim to the side and upper edges, then mark and suffice to the right length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and improve with a tile file for an especially wise finish:
Step 9.
As soon as your edges are used, get rid of the batten and measure the gap listed below. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to allow for sealant between the sink and tiles. When the adhesive is dry, use the grout and seal the bottom space:
How to utilise the silicone for grouting ceramic tile?
– Before you begin, make sure the ceramic tiles are clean and completely dry.
– Select a suitable silicone sealant that is both mould-resistant and waterproof.
– Load the silicone into a caulking gun for easier application.
– Apply the silicone sealant to fill in any gaps between the tiles.
– Smooth out the silicone using a tool or a damp sponge for a tidy and precise finish.
– Allow the silicone to dry according to the provided instructions.
– To prevent mould growth, regularly clean and maintain the silicone sealant.
– By using silicone for grouting your ceramic tiles, you create a flexible and impermeable barrier that protects the grout and maintains a polished appearance.
If that doesn’t answer your questions about wall tiling then we don’t know what will. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button listed below:.
The idea of tiling your own walls may be a challenging prospect, but with the right preparation and by utilising the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you might believe. Begin by arranging a row of tiles with gaps in between them. Then, align the edge of the batten with the edge of the first tile in the row. If this is not possible, divide the distance between the wall and rod marks in half. Just like with the vertical rows, ensure that it is wider than half the width of a tile. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the exact same for the return, permitting the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to permit sealant in between the sink and tiles.
Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall
Tilers (WikiPedia)
Durable and versatile, tiles come in various shapes, such as thin squares or rectangles. They are made from materials like ceramic, stone, metal, clay, and glass. Tiles find widespread use in covering roofs, floors, walls, edges, and tabletops. Some lightweight options, like perlite, wood, and mineral wool, are suitable for walls and ceilings. Tiles also extend beyond traditional use, appearing as construction units or counters in tile-based games. The word “tile” originates from the French “tuile,” derived from the Latin “tegula,” which means a fired clay roof tile.
Tiles exhibit versatility in their applications for walls and floors, showcasing a range of designs that include simple squares and intricate mosaics. Ceramic tiles are often glazed for indoor use and left unglazed for roofing purposes. Additionally, materials like glass, cork, concrete, composites, and stone are commonly used in tile production. Stone tiles can be made from marbles, onyx, granite, and slate. While thinner tiles are suitable for walls, floors require sturdier surfaces that can handle impacts and wear.