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How To Tile A Wall: A Complete Guide To Wall Tiling
Don’t be intimidated by the idea of tiling your walls. With proper preparation and the right tools, it’s actually much easier than you think. If you’re a bit daunted by wall tiling then don’t be as we have actually developed this helpful guide that covers whatever there is to learn about wall tiling! You can use the buttons listed below to avoid to the bit you have an interest in or merely scroll to read the entire lot.
Before Laying Your Tiles
Prior to you start, ensure the surface areas you’ll be working on are clean, dry and flat. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or fractures. Examine if the new plaster is dry prior to you start, keeping in mind it can take at least two months to set correctly, and use Mapei Guide G to prime any porous surfaces.
As with all DIY tasks, appropriate preparation and your safety come first. Take a look at this list of products, protective equipment, and tiling tools:
Materials: Wall tiles, Tile Adhesive, Grout
Protective Kit: Safety Goggles or Glasses, Dust mask, Latex Grip Safety Gloves
Tools: Notched trowel, Spirit level, Tile spacers, Drill with ceramic/masonry bit, Tile cutter, Tile nippers, Grout remover, Grout float, Mixing bucket, Pile marker/pencil, Rubber Mallet, Hammer, Masonry nails, Hacksaw, Cold chisel, Masking tape, Cloth.
Wall Tiling Preparation
The number of tiles do you require?
The primary step is working out the number of tiles you need, and to do that, you have to compute the location of the area you’ll be covering. Procedure the height and width of the space then increase the figures.
Make sure to consider the area of any windows, doors or cupboards and deduct this from the overall. To save confusion, it often assists to knock up a quick sketch with all the dimensions written down.
You can go ahead and purchase your tiles once you’re sure of the mathematics. The majority of ceramic tile loads cover a square metre, but we ‘d recommend having around 5-10% additional just in case.
Beginning
It’s constantly recommended to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s simpler to make certain your pattern is balanced. It likewise means any half-tiles you might require can address the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s tempting to start in the corner, it might leave you with wonky rows and an unpleasant finish by the time you’re done.
Produce Your Style
As we discussed earlier, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your area.Finding the centre is as easy as measuring the height and width, then making a pencil mark in the middle.
To help with tile size, you can create a handy gauge rod. It can be made with a piece of wood measuring 50mm x 25mm, preferably around 1.8 metres long, depending on your wall size.
Arrange a line of tiles, leaving space in between, and align the batten’s edge with the first tile. Number and mark each tile and gap on the rod using a pencil. In this manner, it’s simple to see how many you require in each row.
Step 1
Hold the gauge rod parallel to the centre of your wall, proceed by marking the tile positions horizontally across the rod:
Step 2
Check if the last tile requires to be cut in order to fit once you reach a corner. If less than half a tile will be required we recommend adjusting your beginning position, as larger tiles look far better when ended up:
Step 3
Line up the rod at the initial mark and make a brand-new one halfway between two tile marks if you do require to move your beginning point. It should indicate your end tiles you require to cut will be over half a tile wide, which your centre line and centre tile now compare:
Step 4
Place the gauge rod against the marked area. Double-check its alignment with a spirit level to ensure it is perfectly straight. Proceed to draw a line across horizontally.
Creating Horizontal Rows
It’s time for the horizontal ones when you’ve established your vertical rows. We advise using wooden battens protected to the wall as a guide, as they’ll likewise help prevent slippage while the adhesive is setting.
Action 1
Align your gauge rod, vertical line and skirting/floor, then pencil mark along with the rod’s leading tile mark. Do this all the way up the wall following the vertical line up until the rod touches the ceiling. With any luck, the lines marked on the wall and rod will align perfectly, eliminating the need to cut tiles for the bottom and top rows. However, if this is not the case, simply divide the distance between the wall and rod marks in half. Just like with the vertical rows, ensure that this measurement is greater than half the width of a tile. If they’re less than half a tile’s width, just utilise the next mark down on the rod:
Action 2
Measure the distance in between the two wall marks and add another halfway in between them:
Action 3
If its marks with the one you’ve just made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then align one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod. This will be where your horizontal row starts. Utilising a long straight edge and spirit level, draw the line across the wall from the mark:
Action 4
Examine behind the wall for any cables or pipelines, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Utilise another batten for the vertical line.
Part-Tiling A Wall
When it comes to partially tiling a wall, investing time to achieve a clean finish is definitely worth it. We highly recommend starting with a horizontal row of complete tiles as it creates a more polished look.
Step 1
Utilise a gauge rod to work out the position of the most affordable horizontal row, then mark the top row’s position on the wall:
Step 2
Fill the space in between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Keep in mind, you don’t desire them too little, so move your leading row if they’re less than half a tile:
Step 3
If you don’t like the idea of cutting tiles and would rather prevent it, inspect to see if the skirting/wall is even. Use a long, straight batten, levelled with a level, to find the lowest point. You can use it to align your tiles. If not, cut those tiles!
Repairing Whole Tiles To A Wall
It’s truly important to start laying your field tiles so the faces are level. If any are uneven, eliminate them and either add or get rid of adhesive so they all sit flush.
Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles usually indicate you will not require corner trim. Tile the first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the exact same for the return, permitting the corners to overlap. Leave a space for grouting.
Step 1
Beginning in the corner of your two battens, scoop up and apply some adhesive to the wall utilising your notched trowel. Our goal is to find impeccable ridges in the tiles. These ridges are a sign of consistent adhesive application, increasing the chances of proper alignment.
Step 2
Apply the first tile to the corner where your battens satisfy so its edges are against them, and push its centre strongly to the wall. Include the tiles above and next to it, being sure to leave a space between them:
Step 3
Add tile spacers to these spaces and adjust the tiles where essential. Push your spacers in securely to make for an even grout and much easier joints in the future:
Step 4
Continue adding tiles up until you have actually covered all the adhesive, then carry on the procedure for the rest of the wall. Clean any excess adhesive from the tiles utilising a.
wet sponge as you go– it’s hard to leave once it’s dried:
Step 5.
Remove the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that might have escaped from under the tiles. Then round off the wall with the cut tiles required for the.
gaps:
Tiling Internal Corners.
Action 1.
The simplest way to measure for cutting is utilising the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, place another versus the wall, and after that mark they overlap in felt suggestion pen. Otherwise, merely take different measurements at the top and bottom of the area and cut the tile to fit:
Action 2.
If required, examine the cut tile fits properly in the gap and change with a tile file. If you’re going to tile the next wall too you don’t require to be absolutely accurate here, but keep in mind to leave enough room in the corner for grout if you’re only tiling one:
Action 3.
Use the narrow end of a notched trowel to apply adhesive onto the back of your cut tile. Put it in place so it’s level, press to secure it, and utilise joint spacers to keep the gaps if needed:
Action 4.
Repeat the procedure for the next one as soon as you’ve completed your very first wall. Constantly pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls fulfil. This can be the difference between it looking scrappy and a task well done:
Tiling External Corners.
For a cool surface on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It comes in a series of colours and products (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps secure your edges from knocks and chips.
Step 1.
Use a hacksaw to carefully trim the corner trim to the correct length. Once trimmed, apply a strip of adhesive to the return wall and firmly press the trim into place. Align the trim vertically with the tiles on the first wall, ensuring there is enough space for grout in the future. Then, using a notched trowel, apply more adhesive to the return wall, taking care to avoid any accidental contact that could dislodge tiles from the adjacent wall.
Step 2.
Repeat everything the same way as you did on the initial wall, starting at a distance from the corner trim, and remember to allocate room for grout. Use spacers to help you change the tiles you need, and ensure the distance in between tiles stays consistent. Verify the trim hasn’t moved and readjust if required once you’ve completed:
Tiling A Splashback.
Tiling a splashback will depend practically entirely on the shape of your basin. Determine the depth of the wall in multiples of whole tiles, consider the straightness or slight curvature of the back.
Action 1.
Step the width of your basin in entire tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:
Action 2.
Set out a row of tiles and include spaces and edging strips at either end. Cut a wooden batten to the very same length and mark the tile and sign up with positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, as well as your lower batten for any half-tiles:
Action 3.
With spirit level, create a vertical line by starting at the centre point and moving upward along the wall:
Action 4.
To cut the bottom row of tiles, repair the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Examine if it’s straight using a level. The upper edge should be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:
Action 5.
Use the adhesive equally to the location with a notched trowel. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:
Action 6.
Start in the centre and attach your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. When finished with the row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:
Action 7.
Use a moist cloth to rub out any excess adhesive:
Action 8.
Apply matching glazed trim to the side and upper edges. After that, mark and suffice to the right length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and refine with a tile file for an especially smart surface:
Action 9.
Once your edges are applied, eliminate the batten and determine the gap listed below. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to permit sealant in between the sink and tiles. .
when the adhesive is dry, use the grout and seal the bottom gap:
So, can you tile over tile?
It’s possible; however, there are crucial factors to contemplate. Opting to tile over tiles can save considerable time and exertion by averting the necessity of removing the old tiles and priming the surface anew. Nevertheless, it is imperative to ensure that the present tiles are in optimal condition and firmly affixed to the substrate. Moreover, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned, even, and devoid of any loose or damaged tiles. Additionally, using the appropriate adhesive is indispensable to guarantee a proper bond between the old and new tiles. It is worth noting that tiling over existing tiles will augment the overall thickness of the wall or floor, necessitating thoughtful management of door clearances and seamless transitions to adjacent surfaces. While this approach may be suitable for your particular project, consulting a professional tiler is advised for personalised guidance on its feasibility.
And there you have it! If that does not address your concerns about wall tiling then we do not know what will. Enjoy our useful How-To videos including TV handyman Craig Phillips or go to the Assistance Centre area of our site for more helpful hints and tips. Click the link below if you’re willing to download this guide in PDF format:
The thought of tiling your own walls might be a complicated possibility, but with the right preparation and by utilising the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you may believe. Arrange a row of tiles with gaps in between. Next, align the batten edge with the first tile’s edge. Alternatively, divide the distance between the wall and rod marks in half, ensuring it is wider than half a tile. Proceed to tile the initial wall until it reaches the space’s edge. Repeat this process for the adjacent wall, allowing the corners to overlap. When cutting tiles to fit, remember to account for sealant placement between the sink and tiles.
Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall
Tilers (WikiPedia)
Tiles come in various shapes and sizes, typically made from durable materials like ceramic, stone, metal, clay, or glass. They are commonly used to cover surfaces such as roofs, floors, walls, and even tabletops. Alternatively, the term “tile” can refer to lightweight units made from materials like perlite, wood, and mineral wool, specifically designed for wall and ceiling applications. Additionally, tiles also have a different meaning in the context of games, referring to rectangular counters. The word itself is derived from the French word “tuile,” which originated from the Latin word “tegula,” indicating a roof tile made of fired clay.
Tiles serve as popular choices for both wall and floor coverings, ranging from simple square tiles to intricate mosaic designs. While ceramic is the most common material used for tiles, with glaze for indoor applications and unglazed options for roofing, other materials like glass, cork, composite materials, and stone can also be used. Stone tiles often include marble, onyx, granite, or slate. Thinner tiles are suitable for walls, while more durable surfaces are required for floors to withstand impacts.