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How To Tile A Wall: A Complete Guide To Wall Tiling

The idea of tiling your own walls may be challenging prospect, but with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you might believe. If you’re a bit daunted by wall tiling then don’t be as we have actually developed this helpful guide that covers whatever there is learn about wall tiling! You can use the buttons listed below to avoid to the bit you have an interest in or merely scroll to read the entire lot.

Before Laying Your Tiles

Prior to you start, ensure the surface areas you’ll be working on are clean, dry and flat. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or fractures. Examine the new plaster is dry prior to you start, keeping in mind it can take at least two months to set correctly, and use Mapei Guide G to prime any porous surfaces.

As with all DIY tasks, appropriate preparation and your safety come first. Below is a list of products, protective equipment and tiling tools you’ll need to get the job done in a safe method and to a high standard:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

The number of tiles do you require?

The primary step is working out the number of tiles you need, and to do that, you have to compute the location of the area you’ll be covering. Procedure the height and width of the space then increase the figures.

Make sure to consider the area of any windows, doors or cupboards and deduct this from the overall. To save confusion, it often assists to knock up a quick sketch with all the dimensions written down.

You can go ahead and purchase your tiles once you’re sure of the mathematics. The majority of ceramic tile loads cover a square metre, but we ‘d recommend having around 5-10% additional just in case.



It’s constantly recommended to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s simpler to make certain your pattern is balanced. It likewise means any half-tiles you might require can address the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s tempting to start in the corner, it might leave you with wonky rows and an unpleasant finish by the time you’re done.

Produce Your Style

As we discussed earlier, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your area. You can find this simply by measuring the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a clever way to assist you with your row and end tile size. We advise using a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending upon the size of your wall.

Set out a line of tiles with area in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. Mark each tile and gaps on the rod with a pencil and number them. In this manner, it’s simple to see how many you require in each row.

Step 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions across it:

Step 2

Check if the last tile requires to be cut in order to fit once you reach a corner. If less than half a tile will be required we recommend adjusting your beginning position, as larger tiles look far better when ended up:

Action 3

Line up the rod at the initial mark and make a brand-new one halfway between two tile marks if you do require to move your beginning point. This must indicate your end tiles you require to cut will be over half a tile broad, which your centre line and centre tile now compare:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod against your new mark and, using a spirit level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw the line from side to side:

Creating Horizontal Rows

It’s time for the horizontal ones when you’ve established your vertical rows. We advise using wooden battens protected to the wall as a guide, as they’ll likewise help prevent slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Action 1

Align your gauge rod, vertical line and skirting/floor, then pencil mark along with the rod’s leading tile mark. Do this all the way up the wall following the vertical line up until the rod touches the ceiling. With any luck, the wall and rod lines will compare and you will not have to cut any tiles for the bottom and leading rows. If not, just halve the distance in between the wall and rod marks and, just like the vertical rows, make sure it’s majority a tile broad. If they’re less than half a tile’s width, just utilize the next mark down on the rod:

Step 2

Measure the distance in between the two wall marks and add another halfway in between them:

Action 3

If its marks with the one you’ve just made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then align one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row starts. Utilizing a long straight edge and spirit level, draw the line across the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Examine behind the wall for any cables or pipelines, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Utilize another batten for the vertical line.

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re only part-tiling a wall a leading horizontal row complete of whole tiles makes for a much cleaner finish, so we believe it’s really worth investing some time to get it.

Step 1

Utilize a gauge rod to work out the position of the most affordable horizontal row, then mark the top row’s position on the wall:

Step 2

Fill the space in between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Keep in mind, you don’t desire them too little, so move your leading row if they’re less than half a tile:

Step 3

If you don’t like the idea of cutting tiles and would rather prevent it, inspect to see if the skirting/wall is even. Use a long, straight batten, levelled with a level, to find the lowest point. You can utilize it to align your tiles rather if it’s directly. If not, it’s time to get cutting those tiles!

Repairing Whole Tiles To A Wall

It’s truly important to start laying your field tiles so the faces are level. If any are uneven, eliminate them and either add or get rid of adhesive so they all sit flush.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles usually indicate you will not require corner trim. Tile the first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the exact same for the return, permitting the corners to overlap. Be sure to leave a space for grouting, too.

Action 1

Beginning in the corner of your two battens, scoop up and apply some adhesive to the wall utilizing your notched trowel. We’re looking for excellent ridges here, as they indicate an equivalent amount of adhesive behind the tiles and a much better possibility of them being directly.

Step 2

Apply the first tile to the corner where your battens satisfy so its edges are against them, and push its centre strongly to the wall. Include the tiles above and next to it, being sure to leave a space between them:

Step 3

Add tile spacers to these spaces and adjust the tiles where essential. Push your spacers in securely to make for an even grout and much easier joints in the future:

Step 4

Continue adding tiles up until you have actually covered all the adhesive, then carry on the procedure for the rest of the wall. Clean any excess adhesive from the tiles utilizing a.
wet sponge as you go– it’s hard to leave once it’s dried:

Step 5.

Remove the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that might have escaped from under the tiles. Then round off the wall with the cut tiles required for the.

Tiling Internal Corners.

Action 1.

The simplest way to measure for cutting is utilizing the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, place another versus the wall, and after that mark they overlap in felt suggestion pen. Otherwise, merely take different measurements at the top and bottom of the area and cut the tile to fit:

Action 2.

If required, examine the cut tile fits properly in the gap and change with a tile file. If you’re going to tile the next wall too you don’t require to be absolutely accurate here, but keep in mind to leave enough room in the corner for grout if you’re only tiling one:

Action 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile using the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to secure it, and utilize joint spacers to keep the gaps if needed:

Step 4.

Repeat the procedure for the next one as soon as you’ve completed your very first wall. Constantly pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls fulfill. This can be the difference between it looking scrappy and a task well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a cool surface on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It comes in a series of colours and products (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps secure your edges from knocks and chips.

Step 1.

Cut your corner trim to the right length using a hacksaw, then apply a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Line up the trim with the tiles from your first wall leaving space for grout later on: Vertically apply more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, taking care not to knock or loosen off any tiles from the other wall:

Action 2.

Repeat the process from the very first wall, working far from the corner trim and keeping in mind to leave space for grout. Usage spacers to help you change the tiles should.
you need to, and ensure the distance in between tiles stays consistent. Verify the trim hasn’t moved and readjust if required once you’ve completed:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend practically entirely on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight or even a little curved back, determine the wall’s depth in multiples of whole tiles.

Action 1.

Step the width of your basin in entire tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Step 2.

Set out a row of tiles and include spaces and edging strips at either end. Cut a wooden batten to the very same length and mark the tile and sign up with positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, as well as your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Action 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall using a spirit level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, repair the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Examine it’s straight using.
a level. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge should be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Use the adhesive equally to the location with a notched trowel. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 6.

Start in the center and attach your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. Once you’ve finished that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Action 7.

Use a moist cloth to rub out any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the side and upper edges, then mark and suffice to the right length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and refine with a tile file for an especially smart surface:

Step 9.

Once your edges are applied, eliminate the batten and determine the gap listed below. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to permit sealant in between the sink and tiles. .
when the adhesive is dry, use the grout and seal the bottom gap:

And there you have it! If that does not address your concerns about wall tiling then we do not know what will. if you’re still left desiring more however you can constantly enjoy our useful How-To videos including TV handyman Craig Phillips or go to the Assistance Centre area of our site for more helpful hints and tips. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button below:.

The thought of tiling your own walls might be complicated possibility, but with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you may believe. Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. If not, just cut in half the range in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile wide. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to allow for sealant in between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally unquestionable in place in an array to cover roofs, floors, walls, edges, or other objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes speak to to same units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In different sense, a tile is a construction tile or similar object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of on fire clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from easy square tiles to mysterious or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but extra materials are along with commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and extra composite materials, and stone. Tiling rock is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used upon walls than upon floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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