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How To Tile A Wall: A Total Guide To Wall Tiling

The thought of tiling your own walls might be challenging prospect, but with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you might think. If you’re a bit intimidated by wall tiling then don’t be as we’ve created this helpful guide that covers everything there is understand about wall tiling! You can use the buttons listed below to avoid to the bit you have an interest in or simply scroll to check out the whole lot.

Before Laying Your Tiles

Prior to you start, make sure the surface areas you’ll be dealing with are tidy, flat and dry. Strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or fractures if you’re tiling over wallpaper. Check the new plaster is dry prior to you begin, bearing in mind it can take a minimum of two months to set correctly, and utilize Mapei Guide G to prime any porous surfaces.

As with all Do It Yourself tasks, appropriate preparation and your safety come. Below is a list of products, protective gear and tiling tools you’ll require to finish the job in a safe method and to a high requirement:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

The number of tiles do you need?

The first step is exercising how many tiles you require, and to do that, you have to calculate the area of the space you’ll be covering. Measure the height and width of the space then increase the figures.

Make sure to factor in the location of any cupboards, windows or doors and deduct this from the total. To conserve confusion, it sometimes assists to knock up a quick sketch with all the dimensions written down.

You can go ahead and purchase your tiles as soon as you’re sure of the maths. Many ceramic tile loads cover a square metre, however we ‘d suggest having around 5-10% extra just in case.

tiles

Starting

It’s always recommended to begin tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s simpler to make certain your pattern is in proportion. It also implies any half-tiles you may require can go at the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s appealing to start in the corner, it might leave you with wonky rows and a messy surface by the time you’re done.

Produce Your Design

As we pointed out earlier, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your space. You can find this simply by measuring the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a smart way to assist you with your row and end tile size. We advise using a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending upon the size of your wall.

Set out a line of tiles with area in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. Mark each tile and gaps on the rod with a pencil and number them. In this manner, it’s simple to see how many you require in each row.

Action 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions across it:

Step 2

As soon as you reach a corner, check if the last tile needs to be cut in order to fit. If less than half a tile will be needed we suggest adjusting your beginning position, as larger tiles look better when finished:

Action 3

If you do require to move your beginning point, line up the rod at the initial mark and make a brand-new one halfway in between 2 tile marks. This need to mean your end tiles you require to cut will be over half a tile broad, which your centre line and centre tile now match up:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod against your brand-new mark and, using a spirit level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw the line from side to side:

Developing Horizontal Rows

It’s time for the horizontal ones as soon as you’ve developed your vertical rows. We advise utilizing wooden battens secured to the wall as a guide, as they’ll likewise assist avoid slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Action 1

Align your gauge rod, vertical line and skirting/floor, then pencil mark together with the rod’s leading tile mark. Do this all the way up the wall following the vertical line up until the rod touches the ceiling. With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you won’t need to cut any tiles for the bottom and leading rows. If not, just cut in half the range in between the wall and rod marks and, just like the vertical rows, make sure it’s majority a tile wide. If they’re less than half a tile’s width, just use the next mark down on the rod:

Step 2

Step the range between the two wall marks and include another halfway in between them:

Action 3

Hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then align one if its marks with the one you’ve simply made. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row starts. Using a long straight edge and level, draw the line across the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Examine behind the wall for any pipes or cables, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Its leading edge must be aligned with the horizontal pencil line, and ought to be straight. Utilize another batten for the vertical line. It’s an excellent idea to leave the batten’s nail heads sticking out slightly as they’ll be much easier to remove in the future:

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re only part-tiling a wall a leading horizontal row complete of entire tiles makes for a much cleaner finish, so we think it’s actually worth investing some time to get it.

Step 1

Use a gauge rod to work out the position of the lowest horizontal row, then mark the leading row’s position on the wall:

Action 2

Fill the space in between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Keep in mind, you don’t desire them too little, so move your leading row if they’re less than half a tile:

Action 3

If you don’t like the idea of cutting tiles and would rather prevent it, examine to see if the skirting/wall is even. If it’s straight, you can utilize it to align your tiles rather.

Repairing Whole Tiles To A Wall

It’s actually crucial to begin laying your field tiles so the faces are level. Eliminate them and either add or remove adhesive so they all sit flush if any are unequal.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles generally suggest you won’t require corner trim. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the same for the return, enabling the corners to overlap. Make sure to leave a space for grouting, too.

Action 1

Beginning in the corner of your 2 battens, scoop up and use some adhesive to the wall utilizing your notched trowel. We’re looking for excellent ridges here, as they suggest an equal amount of adhesive behind the tiles and a much better possibility of them being directly.

Action 2

Use the first tile to the corner where your battens meet so its edges are against them, and press its centre securely to the wall. Add the tiles above and beside it, making sure to leave a space in between them:


Action 3

Include tile spacers to these gaps and adjust the tiles where necessary. Press your spacers in firmly to produce an even grout and easier joints later on:

Step 4

Continue adding tiles until you’ve covered all the adhesive, then continue the process for the rest of the wall. Clean any excess adhesive from the tiles using a.
wet sponge as you go– it’s difficult to leave as soon as it’s dried:

Step 5.

Eliminate the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that might have left from under the tiles. Then finish off the wall with the cut tiles needed for the.
spaces:

Tiling Internal Corners.

Step 1.

The most convenient method to measure for cutting is using the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, place another against the wall, and after that mark they overlap in felt pointer pen. Otherwise, merely take separate measurements at the top and bottom of the area and cut the tile to fit:

Step 2.

If needed, check the cut tile fits appropriately in the gap and adjust with a tile file. If you’re going to tile the next wall as well you don’t require to be absolutely accurate here, however keep in mind to leave enough room in the corner for grout if you’re just tiling one:

Action 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile using the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to secure it, and use joint spacers to keep the spaces if required:

Step 4.

Once you’ve completed your very first wall, repeat the process for the next one. Constantly pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls meet. This can be the distinction in between it looking scrappy and a task well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a cool finish on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It is available in a series of materials and colours (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and assists safeguard your edges from knocks and chips.

Action 1.

Cut your corner trim to the best length using a hacksaw, then apply a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Line up the trim with the tiles from your first wall leaving room for grout later: Vertically apply more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, taking care not to loosen up or knock off any tiles from the other wall:

Action 2.

Repeat the procedure from the very first wall, working far from the corner trim and remembering to leave room for grout. Usage spacers to assist you change the tiles should.
you require to, and ensure the distance between tiles stays constant. Verify the trim hasn’t moved and adjust if needed as soon as you have actually finished:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend nearly entirely on the shape of your basin. Measure the wall’s depth in multiples of entire tiles if there’s a straight or even slightly curved back. A more noticable curved methods you’ll need to cut tiles to fit and allow for a row of half-tiles closest to your basin. If there’s just a minor curve, or the edge is completely directly, you can lay the very first row level to it without needing to cut tiles. We recommend utilizing either cardboard or paper spacers to assist you while the adhesive dries, which can then be removed and the sign up with filled with sealant.

Action 1.

Step the width of your basin in whole tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Step 2.

Lay out a row of tiles and include spaces and edging strips at either end. Cut a wood batten to the exact same length and mark the tile and sign up with positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, along with your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Action 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall utilizing a spirit level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, repair the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Inspect it’s straight utilizing.
a level. If you doubt, the upper edge ought to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Use the adhesive uniformly to the location with a notched trowel. If you doubt, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 6.

Start in the center and connect your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. When you’ve finished that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Step 7.

Utilize a wet cloth to rub out any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the side and upper edges, then mark and cut it to the ideal length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and fine-tune with a tile apply for an especially wise surface:

Step 9.

Once your edges are used, remove the batten and determine the gap below. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to enable sealant between the sink and tiles. Then.
when the adhesive is dry, apply the grout and seal the bottom gap:

If that does not answer your concerns about wall tiling then we do not understand what will. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button listed below:.

The thought of tiling your own walls may be daunting possibility, however with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more simple than you might think. Lay out a line of tiles with area between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. If not, merely halve the range between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile large. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your area then do the very same for the return, permitting the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to permit for sealant in between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally truth in place in an array to lid roofs, floors, walls, edges, or supplementary objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes take up to same units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In unconventional sense, a tile is a construction tile or same object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of fired up clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from simple square tiles to complex or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but additional materials are along with commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and extra composite materials, and stone. Tiling stone is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used on walls than on floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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