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How To Tile A Wall: A Total Guide To Wall Tiling

The idea of tiling your own walls might be challenging prospect, but with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you might believe. If you’re a bit daunted by wall tiling then do not be as we have actually created this convenient guide that covers whatever there is know about wall tiling! You can utilize the buttons below to skip to the bit you’re interested in or simply scroll to read the entire lot.

Before Laying Your Tiles

Before you begin, make sure the surfaces you’ll be working on are tidy, flat and dry. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or cracks. Inspect the brand-new plaster is dry before you start, keeping in mind it can take at least two months to set effectively, and use Mapei Guide G to prime any permeable surfaces.

As with all Do It Yourself jobs, proper preparation and your security come. Below is a list of materials, protective gear and tiling tools you’ll require to do the job in a safe method and to a high standard:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

How many tiles do you require?

The first step is working out the number of tiles you need, and to do that, you need to determine the location of the space you’ll be covering. Procedure the height and width of the area then multiply the figures.

Make sure to consider the area of any cupboards, windows or doors and deduct this from the total. To save confusion, it often assists to knock up a quick sketch with all the dimensions jotted down.

You can go ahead and buy your tiles once you’re sure of the maths. The majority of ceramic tile loads cover a square metre, but we ‘d recommend having around 5-10% extra simply in case.



It’s constantly suggested to begin tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s easier to ensure your pattern is symmetrical. It also means any half-tiles you might need can address completion of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s tempting to begin in the corner, it may leave you with wonky rows and an unpleasant surface by the time you’re done.

Develop Your Style

As we discussed earlier, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your space. You can discover this merely by measuring the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a wise way to assist you with your row and end tile size. We suggest utilizing a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending on the size of your wall.

Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. Mark each tile and gaps on the rod with a pencil and number them. By doing this, it’s easy to see how many you need in each row.

Step 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions across it:

Step 2

As soon as you reach a corner, check if the last tile needs to be cut in order to fit. If less than half a tile will be needed we suggest changing your beginning position, as bigger tiles look much better when finished:

Action 3

If you do require to move your starting point, line up the rod at the original mark and make a new one halfway in between 2 tile marks. This must suggest your end tiles you require to cut will be majority a tile broad, which your centre line and centre tile now compare:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod against your new mark and, utilizing a spirit level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw a line from side to side:

Developing Horizontal Rows

It’s time for the horizontal ones when you’ve established your vertical rows. We recommend using wooden battens protected to the wall as a guide, as they’ll likewise assist avoid slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Step 1

Align your gauge rod, vertical line and skirting/floor, then pencil mark along with the rod’s leading tile mark. Do this all the way up the wall following the vertical line till the rod touches the ceiling. With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you won’t have to cut any tiles for the bottom and top rows. If not, merely cut in half the distance in between the wall and rod marks and, just like the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile wide. If they’re less than half a tile’s width, simply utilize the next mark down on the rod:

Step 2

Measure the range between the two wall marks and add another midway between them:

Step 3

If its marks with the one you’ve just made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then align one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row begins. Using a long straight edge and level, draw a line throughout the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Check behind the wall for any pipelines or cable televisions, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Use another batten for the vertical line.

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re just part-tiling a wall a top horizontal row complete of entire tiles makes for a much cleaner surface, so we think it’s truly worth investing some time to get it.

Step 1

Utilize a gauge rod to work out the position of the most affordable horizontal row, then mark the leading row’s position on the wall:

Step 2

Fill the space between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Keep in mind, you do not desire them too little, so move your leading row if they’re less than half a tile:

Action 3

If you do not like the idea of cutting tiles and would rather prevent it, check to see if the skirting/wall is even. Use a long, straight batten, levelled with a level, to discover the lowest point. You can utilize it to align your tiles instead if it’s directly. If not, it’s time to get cutting those tiles!

Fixing Entire Tiles To A Wall

It’s really essential to start laying your field tiles so the faces are level. If any are uneven, remove them and either include or eliminate adhesive so they all sit flush.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles generally indicate you will not require corner trim. Tile the first wall right approximately the edge of your area then do the same for the return, permitting the corners to overlap. Be sure to leave a space for grouting, too.

Action 1

Starting in the corner of your 2 battens, scoop up and apply some adhesive to the wall utilizing your notched trowel. With a notched trowel, work away from the vertical batten in horizontal strokes holding the blade at around 45 °. We’re searching for good ridges here, as they suggest an equivalent amount of adhesive behind the tiles and a much better opportunity of them being straight. Work around one square metre at a time so the adhesive doesn’t dry out:

Step 2

Apply the first tile to the corner where your battens fulfill so its edges protest them, and push its centre strongly to the wall. Add the tiles above and beside it, making certain to leave a gap in between them:

Step 3

Add tile spacers to these gaps and adjust the tiles where required. Press your spacers in securely to produce an even grout and simpler joints in the future:

Step 4

Continue adding tiles up until you’ve covered all the adhesive, then continue the procedure for the rest of the wall. Wipe any excess adhesive from the tiles utilizing a.
wet sponge as you go– it’s difficult to get off once it’s dried:

Step 5.

Eliminate the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that may have escaped from under the tiles. Then round off the wall with the cut tiles required for the.

Tiling Internal Corners.

Action 1.

The most convenient method to measure for cutting is using the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, location another versus the wall, and after that mark they overlap in felt pointer pen. Otherwise, just take separate measurements at the top and bottom of the space and cut the tile to fit:

Step 2.

Inspect the cut tile fits effectively in the space and change with a tile file if needed. If you’re going to tile the next wall too you do not need to be completely accurate here, however remember to leave enough space in the corner for grout if you’re only tiling one:

Action 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile utilizing the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to secure it, and use joint spacers to keep the gaps if needed:

Step 4.

Repeat the process for the next one once you’ve finished your first wall. Constantly strive for the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls meet. This can be the difference in between it looking scrappy and a task well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a cool surface on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It can be found in a variety of products and colours (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps protect your edges from knocks and chips.

Action 1.

Cut your corner trim to the ideal length utilizing a hacksaw, then use a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Line up the trim with the tiles from your very first wall leaving room for grout later: Vertically use more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, making sure not to knock or loosen off any tiles from the other wall:

Step 2.

Repeat the procedure from the very first wall, working far from the corner trim and keeping in mind to leave room for grout. Usage spacers to assist you adjust the tiles should.
you require to, and make sure the range between tiles stays consistent. Double-check the trim hasn’t moved and adjust if required once you have actually finished:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend almost completely on the shape of your basin. Measure the wall’s depth in multiples of whole tiles if there’s a straight or even slightly curved back. A more noticable curved ways you’ll need to cut tiles to enable and fit for a row of half-tiles closest to your basin. If there’s only a slight curve, or the edge is absolutely straight, you can lay the first row level to it without having to cut tiles. We recommend utilizing either cardboard or paper spacers to assist you while the adhesive dries, which can then be gotten rid of and the join filled with sealant.

Step 1.

Step the width of your basin in whole tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Action 2.

Lay out a row of tiles and include areas and edging strips at either end. Cut a wood batten to the exact same length and mark the tile and join positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, in addition to your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Action 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall using a spirit level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, repair the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Check it’s straight using.
a spirit level. If you doubt, the upper edge must be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Apply the adhesive equally to the area with a notched trowel. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge should be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Action 6.

Start in the middle and attach your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. When you have actually finished that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Action 7.

Use a moist cloth to rub out any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the side and upper edges, then mark and suffice to the best length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and refine with a tile apply for a particularly clever surface:

Step 9.

Once your edges are applied, get rid of the batten and determine the space below. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to permit sealant in between the sink and tiles. Then.
when the adhesive is dry, use the grout and seal the bottom gap:

And there you have it! If that does not address your concerns about wall tiling then we don’t know what will. if you’re still left desiring more however you can constantly see our helpful How-To videos including TELEVISION handyman Craig Phillips or visit the Help Centre area of our site for more practical hints and suggestions. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button below:.

The thought of tiling your own walls may be overwhelming prospect, but with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you may believe. Lay out a line of tiles with area in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. If not, merely halve the distance between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile broad. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your area then do the same for the return, permitting the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to permit for sealant in between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally truth in place in an array to lid roofs, floors, walls, edges, or further objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes direct to similar units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In unusual sense, a tile is a construction tile or same object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of fired up clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from simple square tiles to mysterious or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but supplementary materials are moreover commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and other composite materials, and stone. Tiling rock is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used on walls than on floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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