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How To Tile A Wall: A Complete Guide To Wall Tiling

The thought of tiling your own walls may be complicated possibility, however with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more simple than you may believe. Then don’t be as we have actually developed this useful guide that covers everything there is know about wall tiling, if you’re a bit daunted by wall tiling! You can use the buttons listed below to skip to the bit you have an interest in or simply scroll to read the whole lot.

Before Laying Your Tiles

Before you begin, make certain the surfaces you’ll be working on are clean, flat and dry. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or cracks. Inspect the new plaster is dry prior to you begin, remembering it can take a minimum of 2 months to set appropriately, and utilize Mapei Primer G to prime any porous surfaces.

As with all Do It Yourself jobs, correct preparation and your security come. Below is a list of materials, protective equipment and tiling tools you’ll require to get the job done in a safe way and to a high standard:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

How many tiles do you need?

The initial step is working out the number of tiles you need, and to do that, you have to compute the area of the area you’ll be covering. Measure the height and width of the space then multiply the figures.

Be sure to factor in the area of any windows, cabinets or doors and deduct this from the overall. To conserve confusion, it sometimes assists to knock up a quick sketch with all the measurements jotted down.

When you ensure the mathematics, you can go ahead and buy your tiles. The majority of ceramic tile packs cover a square metre, but we ‘d suggest having around 5-10% additional just in case.



It’s always advisable to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s simpler to ensure your pattern is symmetrical. It also means any half-tiles you may require can go at the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s appealing to begin in the corner, it may leave you with wonky rows and an unpleasant finish by the time you’re done.

Develop Your Design

As we mentioned earlier, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your space. You can discover this just by measuring the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a wise method to assist you with your row and end tile size. We recommend using a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending upon the size of your wall.

Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. Mark each tile and spaces on the rod with a pencil and number them. By doing this, it’s easy to see how many you require in each row.

Action 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions throughout it:

Action 2

As soon as you reach a corner, check if the last tile needs to be cut in order to fit. If less than half a tile will be required we recommend changing your beginning position, as larger tiles look far better when finished:

Step 3

If you do require to move your starting point, line up the rod at the initial mark and make a new one halfway in between two tile marks. This need to indicate your end tiles you require to cut will be over half a tile broad, and that your centre line and centre tile now compare:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod versus your brand-new mark and, utilizing a spirit level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw the line from side to side:

Developing Horizontal Rows

As soon as you have actually established your vertical rows, it’s time for the horizontal ones. We recommend using wooden battens secured to the wall as a guide, as they’ll also help prevent slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Action 1

Align your gauge rod, vertical line and skirting/floor, then pencil mark along with the rod’s leading tile mark. Do this all the way up the wall following the vertical line up until the rod touches the ceiling. With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you will not need to cut any tiles for the leading and bottom rows. If not, just cut in half the distance in between the wall and rod marks and, just like the vertical rows, make certain it’s majority a tile broad. If they’re less than half a tile’s width, just utilize the next mark down on the rod:

Step 2

Step the range between the two wall marks and include another halfway between them:

Step 3

If its marks with the one you’ve simply made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then align one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row begins. Using a long straight edge and level, draw the line across the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Check behind the wall for any cables or pipes, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Utilize another batten for the vertical line.

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re just part-tiling a wall a top horizontal row full of whole tiles makes for a much cleaner finish, so we think it’s truly worth investing a long time to get it right.

Action 1

Utilize a gauge rod to exercise the position of the lowest horizontal row, then mark the top row’s position on the wall:

Step 2

Fill the space in between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Keep in mind, you don’t want them too small, so move your top row if they’re less than half a tile:

Step 3

If you don’t like the idea of cutting tiles and would rather prevent it, examine to see if the skirting/wall is even. Utilize a long, straight batten, levelled with a level, to discover the most affordable point. If it’s straight, you can use it to align your tiles instead. If not, it’s time to get cutting those tiles!

Repairing Whole Tiles To A Wall

It’s really crucial to start laying your field tiles so the faces are level. Remove them and either add or remove adhesive so they all sit flush if any are uneven.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles usually mean you won’t require corner trim. Tile the very first wall right approximately the edge of your area then do the same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Make certain to leave a space for grouting, too.

Action 1

Beginning in the corner of your 2 battens, scoop up and apply some adhesive to the wall utilizing your notched trowel. With a notched trowel, work away from the vertical batten in horizontal strokes holding the blade at around 45 °. We’re searching for great ridges here, as they suggest an equal amount of adhesive behind the tiles and a better possibility of them being straight. Work around one square metre at a time so the adhesive doesn’t dry:

Action 2

Apply the very first tile to the corner where your battens fulfill so its edges are against them, and press its centre securely to the wall. Add the tiles above and next to it, being sure to leave a gap in between them:

Action 3

Add tile spacers to these spaces and change the tiles where essential. Press your spacers in securely to make for an even grout and easier joints later:

Step 4

Continue adding tiles up until you have actually covered all the adhesive, then continue the procedure for the rest of the wall. Clean any excess adhesive from the tiles utilizing a.
moist sponge as you go– it’s challenging to leave as soon as it’s dried:

Step 5.

Scrape and eliminate the vertical batten off any excess adhesive that might have escaped from under the tiles. Then finish off the wall with the cut tiles required for the.

Tiling Internal Corners.

Step 1.

The most convenient way to determine for cutting is using the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, place another against the wall, and after that mark they overlap in felt suggestion pen. Otherwise, merely take separate measurements at the top and bottom of the area and cut the tile to fit:

Step 2.

Check the cut tile fits appropriately in the gap and change with a tile file if required. If you’re going to tile the next wall also you do not require to be completely accurate here, but keep in mind to leave enough space in the corner for grout if you’re only tiling one:

Step 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile using the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to secure it, and utilize joint spacers to keep the gaps if needed:

Step 4.

Repeat the process for the next one as soon as you’ve finished your first wall. Always strive for the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls fulfill. This can be the difference between it looking scrappy and a task well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a cool surface on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It comes in a variety of colours and materials (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and assists secure your edges from knocks and chips.

Action 1.

Cut your corner trim to the right length using a hacksaw, then use a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Line up the trim with the tiles from your first wall leaving room for grout in the future: Vertically use more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, taking care not to knock or loosen up off any tiles from the other wall:

Step 2.

Repeat the procedure from the first wall, working far from the corner trim and keeping in mind to leave space for grout. Use spacers to assist you adjust the tiles should.
you need to, and ensure the distance in between tiles remains constant. Double-check the trim hasn’t moved and adjust if required as soon as you’ve ended up:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend nearly completely on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight or even slightly curved back, measure the wall’s depth in multiples of whole tiles. A more pronounced curved means you’ll require to cut tiles to enable and fit for a row of half-tiles closest to your basin. If there’s only a small curve, or the edge is completely directly, you can lay the very first row level to it without needing to cut tiles. We recommend using either cardboard or paper spacers to guide you while the adhesive dries, which can then be gotten rid of and the join filled with sealant.

Action 1.

Measure the width of your basin in entire tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Step 2.

Set out a row of tiles and consist of areas and edging strips at either end. Cut a wooden batten to the very same length and mark the tile and sign up with positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, along with your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Step 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall using a level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, fix the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Inspect it’s straight utilizing.
a level. If you doubt, the upper edge should be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Apply the adhesive evenly to the area with a notched trowel. If you doubt, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 6.

Start in the middle and attach your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. Once you’ve ended up that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Step 7.

Use a moist cloth to wipe off any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the upper and side edges, then mark and suffice to the best length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and refine with a tile file for an especially wise finish:

Step 9.

Once your edges are used, remove the batten and determine the space below. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to allow for sealant in between the sink and tiles. .
when the adhesive is dry, apply the grout and seal the bottom gap:

And there you have it! If that doesn’t answer your concerns about wall tiling then we do not understand what will. if you’re still left desiring more however you can constantly view our useful How-To videos including TELEVISION handyman Craig Phillips or check out the Assistance Centre section of our site for more practical hints and suggestions. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button listed below:.

The thought of tiling your own walls may be challenging possibility, but with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you may believe. Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. If not, simply halve the distance in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile broad. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the exact same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to enable for sealant between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally total in place in an array to cover roofs, floors, walls, edges, or other objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes concentrate on to thesame units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In complementary sense, a tile is a construction tile or same object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of in flames clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from easy square tiles to technical or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but supplementary materials are also commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and further composite materials, and stone. Tiling stone is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used upon walls than on floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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