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With decades of tiling experience, our dynamic group has actually fulfilled practically every tiling demand you can possibly imagine, constructing long lasting relationships with a host of suppliers & customers and crafting a service unlike any tiling company in Dublin. From minor works to massive tasks, we position client satisfaction and effectiveness above all else, guaranteeing we deliver on-time, in spending plan and to a high standard.
How to tile a wall
Create a spectacular wall with attractive, practical and resilient wall tiles
Tiling is an experienced job but we’re here to help you get the best surface to your wall tiles. Whether you’re tiling an entire restroom, a shower cubicle, a splashback in a kitchen or a little area around a fireplace, our suggestions will assist you accomplish a terrific outcome.
Before you start, it is necessary to prepare your tiling. Computing the variety of tiles & adhesive you need, preparing and preparing the wall out the position of the tiles are all important elements. Our guide to preparing your wall tiles covers all you need to know prior to tiling.
Take a step-by-step journey on how to lay tiles. Our focus will be on tiling an entire wall and using square tiles in a direct tiling pattern as our example. We’ll describe how to:
– Fix whole tiles to a wall
– Cut tiles for corners and obstacles and use corner tile trim
– Grout and surface wall tiles
– Seal around the edges of tiling
Tools & Materials
– Wall tiles
– Filler – if you have any holes in the wall that require filling. If the hole in the wall is larger than the size of your fist, we recommend getting an expert to make the repair work.
– Tile adhesive – we recommend ready-mixed tile adhesive to conserve time
– Tile spacers
– Hygienic sealant – we recommend anti-mould sealant for a finish that lasts
– Grout – we recommend ready-mixed grout
– Multi-purpose fabrics
– Tile trim – as required.
– Tape measure
– Chinagraph pencil or felt-tip pen – if required, to mark tiles for cutting
– Notched trowel (also referred to as a notched spreader).
– Tile cutter.
– Tile file – if required.
– Hacksaw – if needed, to cut the tile trim.
– Grout spreader (likewise known as a grout float).
– Grout finisher (likewise known as a grout shaper).
– Claw hammer.
– Spirit level.
– Cartridge gun – if needed. Some sealant comes as a trigger gun and doesn’t require a cartridge gun. Check the item guidelines for the sealant.
– Sealant smoother.
– Safety gloves.
– Dust mask.
When cutting tiles, it is important to prioritise your safety. Protecting yourself from flying pieces and sharp edges can be achieved by wearing both safety goggles and a dust mask.
The number of courses for ceramic tile shower walls?
How many courses of tiles do you need for your ceramic tile shower walls? Well, it all comes down to personal taste and the design you’re going for. Typically, a standard shower wall would have about three to five courses of tiles from top to bottom. However, this can be adjusted based on the height of the shower walls and the size of the tiles being used. Want a taller, more dramatic look? Add some extra courses. Prefer a minimalist style? Fewer courses will do the trick. Just remember to plan it out considering factors like tile size, grout lines, and overall aesthetics. That way, you’ll achieve the perfect result that suits your shower goals.
How to tile a whole wall.
Once you have actually prepared the tiles, prepared the wall and fixed your wood battens, lay whole tiles first by following these steps.
Scoop up some tile adhesive with the trowel and press it onto the wall, beginning in the corner formed by the wood battens. Apply the substance using a notched trowel, moving outward from the corner in horizontal motions. Maintain an approximately 45° angle with the edge of the notched trowel. The ridges in the adhesive will make sure there’s an equivalent quantity behind each tile, making it simpler to get them all level. Attempt not to deal with more than one square metre at a time, as the adhesive might begin solidifying before you’ve put all the tiles in place.
Choose an ideal tile adhesive for your tiles: for ceramic tiles utilise a ready-mixed tile adhesive or powder adhesive and a powder tile adhesive for porcelain tiles.
Use adhesive to the wall and likewise on the back of the tiles if your tiles are bigger than 20 x 20.
Put your very first tile into the corner, pressing its edges against the corners and the entire tile strongly against the wall. Then add a tile above it and one beside the original tile pressing them securely into the adhesive using a twisting action.
Wipe off any adhesive from the tiles with a moist sponge as you go– if you let it dry it’ll be very difficult to remove.
Leading tip – applying mosaic tiles.
When applying mosaic tiles to the wall, hold a piece of board over the tiles while the adhesive is wet and tap the board gently with a rubber mallet. This will offer the tiles a flat, even finish.
Some mosaics are set at different heights, in which case you should use your hand to guarantee they’re all separately bedded into the adhesive.
When required, put tile spacers into the corners in between the tiles and change the tile positions as and. Push them in firmly and place them flush against the wall so you can grout over them.
Add another tile above the last one you used, and another beside it. Continue using the entire tiles in this way till you’ve tiled the area covered with tile adhesive.
Apply another square metre of adhesive and tiles till you have actually repaired all the entire tiles.
At the edges of the wall, put one leg of the spacer between the tiles so the rest is sticking out– we’ll eliminate this later before grouting.
Leave to dry for the length of time directed on the tile adhesive directions.
Get rid of the vertical wood batten by prising out it’s nails with the claw of a hammer.
Repair whole tiles to the other area of the wall, starting from the corner beside the tiles you have actually already fixed.
When all the entire tiles have been fixed and are dry, eliminate the horizontal lumber batten.
Now you have actually repaired all of the entire tiles, you’re ready to fill the edges and corners of the wall. Head to ‘How to tile corners’ to learn how to do this.
How to tile corners.
In this area, we’ll talk you through tiling corners. There are two kinds of corners– internal and external. These can be formed by intersecting corners or walls can be constructed by obstructions:
The corner joins in between 2 walls, for instance the corner of a room, or the corner created by a door frame.
Imagine an outward-facing corner that juts into the room, like the corner of a statement wall or the edge of a window indentation. That’s it.
There’s a various method for tiling depending upon the type of corner, and we’ll explain both techniques in this section.
In some cases you may discover that you can fit whole tiles throughout the wall without requiring you to cut a tile for the corner. If no cuts are essential, dive to the section ‘How to grout and complete wall tiles’.
Most of the time, you’ll be required to cut a tile to suit the corner.
How to measure and mark tiles for cutting.
There are two ways to determine and mark a tile before cutting:
To cut the tile, position it over the final complete tile in the row. Align another tile against the wall and mark the overlapping area on the tile beneath using a tile scribe, a chinagraph pencil, or a felt-tip pen.
Begin by measuring the top and bottom of the area where you plan to place the tile. Take careful measurements using a measuring tape. Once you have the measurements, mark the top and bottom of the tile accordingly.
Use a square aligned with the two marks you made and draw a vertical line between them using a pencil or felt-tip pen. This line will serve as your guide when cutting the tile.
Now that you have marked the tile, it’s time to proceed with cutting. Check out our post on “How to cut tiles” for helpful recommendations and techniques.
Take a moment to ensure that the tile fits after you have made the cut. In the event that slight adjustments are required, employ a tile file.
You do not have to be completely accurate as the edges will be hidden by the tiles on the other wall if you’re likewise going to tile the nearby wall.
How to tile internal corners.
After you have actually cut the tile, check to see that it fits, if you need to make any little changes – utilise a tile file. You don’t have to be absolutely precise as the edges will be concealed by the tiles on the other wall if you’re also going to tile the nearby wall.
Put adhesive to the back of the cut tile using the narrow end of a notched spreader. Press it into location so it’s level with the nearby tile. Usage spacers if you need to.
Move on to the next wall if you’re tiling more than one wall. Otherwise, you can start grouting and completing the tiles. For guidance on this, jump to our section ‘How to grout and complete wall tiles’.
How to tile external corners.
Use tile trims to get a cool finish on external corners. In addition, it provides added protection to the tile edges, preventing potential chips caused by knocks.
End up tiling your very first wall.
Measure the length of the edge where the tile trim will be installed using a tape measure.
Make a mark on the trim at the exact same measurement and indicate where it needs to be cut. Use a hacksaw to precisely cut the tile trim to the desired length.
Apply a thin strip of tile adhesive onto the wall that is not yet tiled. Use a notched trowel to ensure an even application. Press the tile trim firmly into the adhesive, securing it in place.
Align the trim with the tiles on the first wall. Place two spacers between each tile and the trim, with one near the top and one near the bottom. These spacers will create a gap for grout to be applied later.
Put more tile adhesive on the untitled wall with the notched trowel. Include the adhesive vertically from top to bottom to avoid knocking the tile cut out of place with the teeth of the notched trowel.
Start tiling your 2nd wall, working away from the corner trim. When placing the tiles, keep in mind to leave a slim gap for grouting between each tile and the trim. Use spacers and adjust the tiles as needed to maintain the consistent gap and keep the trim securely in position.
How to finish and grout wall tiles.
As soon as the tiles are repaired in place and the adhesive has actually dried, it’s time to apply the grout.
Remove the tile spacers that are sticking out on the edges of the wall and in the corners.
Beginning in the bottom left corner, press a percentage of grout onto the face of the tiles with a trowel.
To evenly distribute the grout between your tiles, employ a grout spreader, also known as a grout float. Make sure to apply it using long, diagonal strokes, ensuring it seeps into the gaps between the tiles. Maintain this technique until all the joints have been filled with grout. Keep in mind that the grout will start to solidify quickly, so execute this task as swiftly as possible. If you’re grouting a large area, split it into areas and grout a section at a time. This is to prevent the grout solidifying too much whilst you complete grouting the whole location.
Instantly after you finish using the grout, go over the tiles with a damp sponge (but not too wet as this may trigger discolouration) to eliminate any excess. Take care not to drag any grout from the joints.
Leave the grout to dry. As it does, you’ll notice a powdery movie appear on the tiles from all the sponging. Wipe this off with a soft, clean cloth.
How to seal around the edge of tiling.
Sealing around the edge of tiling is necessary to stop water getting behind the tiles, particularly around worktops, basins and kitchen sinks. Water behind tiles can cause damage to the wall, fixtures and fittings. We’ll talk you through sealing the edge of tiling with hygienic sealant.
Connect the nozzle to the sealant and cut off the suggestion, as directed by the product guidelines. Put the sealant into the cartridge gun if required.
Run a constant bead of sealant, working from one end of the tiled location to the other, from left to. When you’re doing this, attempt to keep a consistent pressure on the trigger of the weapon and a constant speed.
Smooth any abnormalities in the shape of the bead with a sealant smoother (or a wet finger), however make sure not to pull the sealant from the surface area.
Leave the sealant to dry.
Determining the number of tiles & adhesive you need, preparing the wall and planning out the position of the tiles are all essential aspects. Our guide to planning your wall tiles covers all you require to know prior to tiling.
In our example we’re tiling an entire wall with square tiles in a direct tiling design. If you’re likewise going to tile the surrounding wall, you don’t have to be absolutely accurate as the edges will be concealed by the tiles on the other wall.
Start tiling your second wall, working away from the corner trim.
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