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How To Tile A Wall: A Complete Guide To Wall Tiling

The thought of tiling your own walls may be overwhelming possibility, however with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you may think. If you’re a bit daunted by wall tiling then don’t be as we have actually produced this convenient guide that covers everything there is know about wall tiling! You can use the buttons listed below to skip to the bit you’re interested in or simply scroll to check out the whole lot.

Before Laying Your Tiles

Before you begin, ensure the surface areas you’ll be dealing with are tidy, flat and dry. Strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or fractures if you’re tiling over wallpaper. Check the new plaster is dry prior to you begin, remembering it can take a minimum of 2 months to set effectively, and utilize Mapei Primer G to prime any permeable surfaces.

As with all Do It Yourself jobs, appropriate preparation and your security come. Below is a list of products, protective gear and tiling tools you’ll require to do the job in a safe way and to a high standard:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

The number of tiles do you need?

The primary step is exercising how many tiles you require, and to do that, you have to compute the location of the space you’ll be covering. Step the height and width of the space then multiply the figures.

Be sure to consider the area of any cabinets, windows or doors and subtract this from the total. To conserve confusion, it often helps to knock up a fast sketch with all the dimensions made a note of.

When you’re sure of the maths, you can go ahead and buy your tiles. A lot of ceramic tile loads cover a square metre, however we ‘d recommend having around 5-10% additional just in case.

tiles

Starting

It’s constantly recommended to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s easier to make certain your pattern is in proportion. It also means any half-tiles you may need can address the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s tempting to start in the corner, it may leave you with wonky rows and an unpleasant surface by the time you’re done.

Develop Your Style

As we mentioned earlier, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your area. You can find this merely by measuring the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a clever way to help you with your row and end tile size. We recommend utilizing a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending on the size of your wall.

Set out a line of tiles with area in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. Mark each tile and spaces on the rod with a pencil and number them. By doing this, it’s easy to see how many you need in each row.

Step 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions throughout it:

Action 2

As soon as you reach a corner, check if the last tile needs to be cut in order to fit. If less than half a tile will be needed we recommend changing your beginning position, as bigger tiles look better when finished:

Step 3

Line up the rod at the initial mark and make a brand-new one midway in between 2 tile marks if you do need to move your beginning point. This ought to imply your end tiles you require to cut will be more than half a tile large, which your centre line and centre tile now compare:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod against your new mark and, using a spirit level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw the line from side to side:

Producing Horizontal Rows

When you have actually established your vertical rows, it’s time for the horizontal ones. We suggest utilizing wooden battens protected to the wall as a guide, as they’ll also help avoid slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Step 1

With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you won’t have to cut any tiles for the top and bottom rows. If not, just halve the range in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile large.

Step 2

Procedure the range between the two wall marks and add another midway between them:

Step 3

Hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then align one if its marks with the one you have actually just made. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row begins. Utilizing a long straight edge and level, draw the line across the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Examine behind the wall for any pipelines or cables, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Use another batten for the vertical line.

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re only part-tiling a wall a leading horizontal row full of whole tiles makes for a much cleaner surface, so we think it’s actually worth investing some time to get it.

Action 1

Utilize a gauge rod to exercise the position of the most affordable horizontal row, then mark the top row’s position on the wall:

Step 2

Fill the space between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Keep in mind, you don’t desire them too small, so move your leading row if they’re less than half a tile:

Action 3

If you don’t like the idea of cutting tiles and would rather prevent it, examine to see if the skirting/wall is even. If it’s straight, you can utilize it to align your tiles instead.

Repairing Entire Tiles To A Wall

It’s really important to begin laying your field tiles so the faces are level. Eliminate them and either include or get rid of adhesive so they all sit flush if any are unequal.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles usually mean you will not need corner trim. Tile the first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the very same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Make sure to leave a space for grouting, too.

Step 1

Starting in the corner of your two battens, scoop up and apply some adhesive to the wall using your notched trowel. We’re looking for good ridges here, as they indicate an equivalent quantity of adhesive behind the tiles and a much better opportunity of them being straight.

Action 2

Apply the first tile to the corner where your battens satisfy so its edges protest them, and push its centre strongly to the wall. Include the tiles above and next to it, being sure to leave a space between them:


Action 3

Add tile spacers to these gaps and change the tiles where needed. Press your spacers in securely to make for an even grout and simpler joints in the future:

Step 4

Continue adding tiles up until you’ve covered all the adhesive, then carry on the procedure for the rest of the wall. Clean any excess adhesive from the tiles utilizing a.
wet sponge as you go– it’s difficult to get off as soon as it’s dried:

Step 5.

Scrape and eliminate the vertical batten off any excess adhesive that may have escaped from under the tiles. Complete off the wall with the cut tiles required for the.
gaps:

Tiling Internal Corners.

Step 1.

The easiest way to determine for cutting is utilizing the last entire one in the row– hold a tile over it, place another versus the wall, and then mark they overlap in felt suggestion pen. Otherwise, just take different measurements at the top and bottom of the area and cut the tile to fit:

Step 2.

If required, inspect the cut tile fits properly in the space and change with a tile file. If you’re going to tile the next wall also you don’t require to be completely precise here, however remember to leave enough room in the corner for grout if you’re just tiling one:

Action 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile using the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to protect it, and utilize joint spacers to keep the spaces if required:

Step 4.

As soon as you have actually finished your first wall, repeat the procedure for the next one. Constantly pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls satisfy. This can be the distinction between it looking scrappy and a task well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a neat finish on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It comes in a series of products and colours (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps protect your edges from knocks and chips.

Action 1.

Cut your corner trim to the best length using a hacksaw, then apply a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Line up the trim with the tiles from your first wall leaving room for grout later: Vertically use more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, making sure not to loosen or knock off any tiles from the other wall:

Step 2.

Repeat the process from the first wall, working away from the corner trim and keeping in mind to leave room for grout. Use spacers to help you change the tiles should.
you need to, and guarantee the range between tiles remains consistent. Confirm the trim hasn’t moved and readjust if required as soon as you have actually ended up:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend almost entirely on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight or even a little curved back, measure the wall’s depth in multiples of whole tiles.

Step 1.

Step the width of your basin in entire tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Action 2.

Set out a row of tiles and include areas and edging strips at either end. Cut a wooden batten to the exact same length and mark the tile and sign up with positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, as well as your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Step 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall using a spirit level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, fix the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Examine it’s straight using.
a spirit level. If you doubt, the upper edge should be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Apply the adhesive evenly to the location with a notched trowel. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 6.

Start in the center and connect your first tile in line with the batten’s marks. As soon as you’ve ended up that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Step 7.

Use a moist cloth to wipe off any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the side and upper edges, then mark and suffice to the right length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and improve with a tile declare an especially clever surface:

Step 9.

When your edges are used, eliminate the batten and determine the space below. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to permit sealant in between the sink and tiles. Then.
when the adhesive is dry, apply the grout and seal the bottom space:

If that doesn’t address your concerns about wall tiling then we do not understand what will. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button below:.

The thought of tiling your own walls may be complicated prospect, however with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you might think. Lay out a line of tiles with area between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your very first tile. If not, just halve the distance between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile wide. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to enable for sealant between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally unchangeable in place in an array to lid roofs, floors, walls, edges, or extra objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes tackle to thesame units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In out of the ordinary sense, a tile is a construction tile or thesame object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of on fire clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from easy square tiles to obscure or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but additional materials are next commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and further composite materials, and stone. Tiling rock is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used on walls than on floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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