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We are a licensed and certified tiling company in Dublin. Having a number of years of experience and competent business tilers in Dublin, we can mesmerize the look of your place with our gorgeous ceramic tiles.
How To Tile A Wall: A Total Guide To Wall Tiling
The idea of tiling your own walls may be difficult possibility, however with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you might believe. If you’re a bit daunted by wall tiling then do not be as we’ve produced this helpful guide that covers everything there is learn about wall tiling! You can use the buttons listed below to avoid to the bit you have an interest in or merely scroll to check out the entire lot.
Prior To Laying Your Tiles
Before you begin, ensure the surfaces you’ll be dealing with are tidy, flat and dry. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or fractures. Inspect the new plaster is dry before you begin, keeping in mind it can take a minimum of 2 months to set effectively, and use Mapei Guide G to prime any porous surfaces.
As with all DIY tasks, correct preparation and your security come. Below is a list of products, protective gear and tiling tools you’ll require to finish the job in a safe method and to a high requirement:
Wall Tiling Preparation
How many tiles do you require?
The primary step is working out how many tiles you need, and to do that, you have to calculate the location of the area you’ll be covering. Step the height and width of the space then increase the figures.
Make certain to factor in the area of any windows, cabinets or doors and deduct this from the overall. To save confusion, it often assists to knock up a fast sketch with all the measurements made a note of.
You can go ahead and purchase your tiles as soon as you’re sure of the maths. Many ceramic tile loads cover a square metre, but we ‘d recommend having around 5-10% extra just in case.
It’s always a good idea to begin tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s easier to ensure your pattern is in proportion. It likewise implies any half-tiles you might require can go at the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s appealing to begin in the corner, it might leave you with wonky rows and a messy surface by the time you’re done.
Develop Your Style
As we pointed out earlier, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your space. You can discover this just by determining the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.
A gauge rod is a wise way to assist you with your row and end tile size. We recommend utilizing a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending upon the size of your wall.
Set out a line of tiles with space between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. Mark each tile and gaps on the rod with a pencil and number them. This way, it’s simple to see how many you require in each row.
Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions throughout it:
Once you reach a corner, check if the last tile needs to be cut in order to fit. If less than half a tile will be required we suggest changing your starting position, as bigger tiles look better when ended up:
If you do require to move your beginning point, line up the rod at the initial mark and make a brand-new one midway in between two tile marks. This must imply your end tiles you require to cut will be more than half a tile large, and that your centre line and centre tile now match up:
Hold the gauge rod against your new mark and, using a spirit level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw a line from side to side:
Producing Horizontal Rows
It’s time for the horizontal ones once you have actually established your vertical rows. We advise using wooden battens secured to the wall as a guide, as they’ll likewise help avoid slippage while the adhesive is setting.
Align your gauge rod, vertical line and skirting/floor, then pencil mark along with the rod’s leading tile mark. Do this all the way up the wall following the vertical line till the rod touches the ceiling. With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you will not have to cut any tiles for the leading and bottom rows. If not, just cut in half the distance in between the wall and rod marks and, just like the vertical rows, ensure it’s majority a tile wide. If they’re less than half a tile’s width, just utilize the next discount on the rod:
Step the distance between the two wall marks and add another halfway between them:
If its marks with the one you’ve just made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then line up one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row starts. Using a long straight edge and spirit level, draw the line throughout the wall from the mark:
Check behind the wall for any pipes or cable televisions, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Its top edge should be lined up with the horizontal pencil line, and ought to be straight. Utilize another batten for the vertical line. It’s a good idea to leave the batten’s nail heads standing out a little as they’ll be simpler to eliminate later on:
Part-Tiling A Wall
If you’re just part-tiling a wall a top horizontal row complete of whole tiles makes for a much cleaner surface, so we think it’s truly worth investing some time to get it.
Utilize a gauge rod to exercise the position of the most affordable horizontal row, then mark the leading row’s position on the wall:
Fill the gap in between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Keep in mind, you don’t want them too small, so move your leading row if they’re less than half a tile:
If you do not like the concept of cutting tiles and would rather prevent it, inspect to see if the skirting/wall is even. If it’s directly, you can utilize it to align your tiles rather.
Fixing Entire Tiles To A Wall
It’s truly crucial to begin laying your field tiles so the faces are level. Remove them and either add or remove adhesive so they all sit flush if any are unequal.
Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles typically mean you will not require corner trim. Tile the first wall right as much as the edge of your space then do the exact same for the return, enabling the corners to overlap. Make sure to leave a space for grouting, too.
Beginning in the corner of your two battens, scoop up and apply some adhesive to the wall utilizing your notched trowel. Then with a notched trowel, work away from the vertical batten in horizontal strokes holding the blade at around 45 °. We’re searching for good ridges here, as they indicate an equal quantity of adhesive behind the tiles and a much better opportunity of them being straight. Work around one square metre at a time so the adhesive doesn’t dry out:
Use the first tile to the corner where your battens meet so its edges protest them, and push its centre strongly to the wall. Add the tiles above and beside it, making sure to leave a space between them:
Include tile spacers to these gaps and adjust the tiles where required. Push your spacers in firmly to produce an even grout and much easier joints later:
Continue adding tiles until you’ve covered all the adhesive, then carry on the procedure for the remainder of the wall. Wipe any excess adhesive from the tiles using a.
wet sponge as you go– it’s tough to leave as soon as it’s dried:
Remove the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that might have escaped from under the tiles. Then round off the wall with the cut tiles needed for the.
Tiling Internal Corners.
The most convenient method to measure for cutting is using the last entire one in the row– hold a tile over it, location another versus the wall, and after that mark they overlap in felt idea pen. Otherwise, simply take separate measurements at the top and bottom of the space and cut the tile to fit:
Examine the cut tile fits appropriately in the space and adjust with a tile file if required. If you’re going to tile the next wall as well you don’t require to be totally accurate here, but remember to leave enough room in the corner for grout if you’re only tiling one:
Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile using the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to protect it, and use joint spacers to keep the gaps if required:
As soon as you have actually completed your very first wall, repeat the procedure for the next one. Constantly pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls meet. This can be the distinction in between it looking scrappy and a job well done:
Tiling External Corners.
For a cool finish on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It can be found in a variety of materials and colours (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps secure your edges from knocks and chips.
Cut your corner trim to the ideal length using a hacksaw, then apply a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Align the trim with the tiles from your first wall leaving room for grout in the future: Vertically use more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, making sure not to loosen or knock off any tiles from the other wall:
Repeat the procedure from the very first wall, working away from the corner trim and keeping in mind to leave space for grout. Usage spacers to help you change the tiles should.
you need to, and make sure the distance in between tiles remains constant. Verify the trim hasn’t moved and adjust if required as soon as you have actually completed:
Tiling A Splashback.
Tiling a splashback will depend practically completely on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight or even somewhat curved back, measure the wall’s depth in multiples of whole tiles.
Procedure the width of your basin in entire tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:
Lay out a row of tiles and consist of areas and edging strips at either end. Cut a wooden batten to the exact same length and mark the tile and join positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, in addition to your lower batten for any half-tiles:
Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall using a spirit level:
To cut the bottom row of tiles, repair the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Inspect it’s straight using.
a spirit level. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge ought to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:
Use the adhesive evenly to the location with a notched trowel. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:
Start in the middle and connect your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. Once you’ve finished that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:
Use a wet fabric to rub out any excess adhesive:
Apply matching glazed trim to the side and upper edges, then mark and cut it to the best length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and refine with a tile declare a particularly wise finish:
When your edges are applied, get rid of the batten and measure the space below. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to allow for sealant in between the sink and tiles. .
when the adhesive is dry, use the grout and seal the bottom gap:
If that doesn’t address your questions about wall tiling then we don’t know what will. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button below:.
The idea of tiling your own walls may be overwhelming prospect, but with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you may think. Lay out a line of tiles with area in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. If not, just cut in half the distance between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile large. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the very same for the return, permitting the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to allow for sealant in between the sink and tiles.
Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall
Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally unquestionable in place in an array to cover roofs, floors, walls, edges, or extra objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes take in hand to thesame units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In other sense, a tile is a construction tile or same object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of passionate clay.
Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from simple square tiles to profound or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but supplementary materials are with commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and further composite materials, and stone. Tiling rock is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used upon walls than on floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.
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