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We are a qualified and licensed tiling company in Dublin. Having several years of experience and skilled commercial tilers in Dublin, we can mesmerize the look of your location with our gorgeous ceramic tiles.

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How To Tile A Wall: A Complete Guide To Wall Tiling

The idea of tiling your own walls might be overwhelming prospect, however with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more simple than you may believe. Then don’t be as we’ve produced this helpful guide that covers whatever there is understand about wall tiling, if you’re a bit daunted by wall tiling! You can utilize the buttons below to avoid to the bit you have an interest in or just scroll to check out the entire lot.

Prior To Laying Your Tiles

Before you start, make certain the surfaces you’ll be dealing with are clean, dry and flat. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or fractures. Inspect the new plaster is dry before you start, remembering it can take a minimum of two months to set correctly, and use Mapei Primer G to prime any porous surface areas.

As with all DIY tasks, correct preparation and your security come. Below is a list of materials, protective gear and tiling tools you’ll require to finish the job in a safe way and to a high requirement:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

The number of tiles do you require?

The initial step is working out the number of tiles you need, and to do that, you need to calculate the area of the space you’ll be covering. Step the height and width of the space then increase the figures.

Make certain to consider the location of any windows, doors or cabinets and deduct this from the total. To save confusion, it often helps to knock up a fast sketch with all the measurements written down.

As soon as you ensure the maths, you can proceed and purchase your tiles. Many ceramic tile packs cover a square metre, but we ‘d advise having around 5-10% extra simply in case.

tiles

Starting

It’s always suggested to begin tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s easier to make sure your pattern is in proportion. It also indicates any half-tiles you might need can address the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s appealing to start in the corner, it may leave you with wonky rows and an untidy surface by the time you’re done.

Develop Your Design

As we discussed previously, establish your vertical rows from the middle of your space. You can find this just by determining the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a clever way to assist you with your row and end tile size. We advise using a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending on the size of your wall.

Set out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. Mark each tile and spaces on the rod with a pencil and number them. By doing this, it’s simple to see how many you need in each row.

Action 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions throughout it:

Step 2

Check if the last tile needs to be cut in order to fit once you reach a corner. If less than half a tile will be required we suggest changing your starting position, as bigger tiles look much better when ended up:

Step 3

Line up the rod at the original mark and make a new one midway in between two tile marks if you do need to move your starting point. This should indicate your end tiles you need to cut will be more than half a tile large, and that your centre line and centre tile now compare:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod against your brand-new mark and, using a spirit level to make ensure it’s straight, draw a line from side to side:

Creating Horizontal Rows

As soon as you have actually developed your vertical rows, it’s time for the horizontal ones. We recommend using wood battens protected to the wall as a guide, as they’ll likewise help prevent slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Step 1

Align your gauge rod, vertical line and skirting/floor, then pencil mark along with the rod’s top tile mark. Do this all the way up the wall following the vertical line till the rod touches the ceiling. With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you will not need to cut any tiles for the top and bottom rows. If not, simply cut in half the range in between the wall and rod marks and, just like the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile large. If they’re less than half a tile’s width, simply utilize the next mark down on the rod:

Action 2

Measure the range between the two wall marks and add another midway in between them:

Step 3

If its marks with the one you’ve just made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then line up one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row begins. Utilizing a long straight edge and level, draw the line throughout the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Examine behind the wall for any pipelines or cables, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Its leading edge should be aligned with the horizontal pencil line, and should be straight. Then utilize another batten for the vertical line. It’s an excellent idea to leave the batten’s nail heads standing out somewhat as they’ll be much easier to remove later:

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re only part-tiling a wall a top horizontal row complete of whole tiles makes for a much cleaner surface, so we think it’s truly worth investing some time to get it.

Step 1

Utilize a gauge rod to work out the position of the most affordable horizontal row, then mark the top row’s position on the wall:

Step 2

Fill the gap between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Remember, you do not desire them too little, so move your top row if they’re less than half a tile:

Step 3

If you do not like the concept of cutting tiles and would rather avoid it, examine to see if the skirting/wall is even. Utilize a long, straight batten, levelled with a spirit level, to discover the lowest point. You can utilize it to align your tiles rather if it’s directly. If not, it’s time to get cutting those tiles!

Repairing Entire Tiles To A Wall

It’s really essential to start laying your field tiles so the faces are level. Eliminate them and either add or remove adhesive so they all sit flush if any are irregular.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles generally mean you will not require corner trim. Tile the first wall right as much as the edge of your area then do the exact same for the return, permitting the corners to overlap. Make sure to leave a gap for grouting, too.

Step 1

Beginning in the corner of your 2 battens, scoop up and apply some adhesive to the wall utilizing your notched trowel. We’re looking for good ridges here, as they mean an equal quantity of adhesive behind the tiles and a better possibility of them being directly.

Action 2

Use the first tile to the corner where your battens fulfill so its edges protest them, and press its centre firmly to the wall. Add the tiles above and beside it, being sure to leave a gap between them:


Action 3

Add tile spacers to these spaces and change the tiles where necessary. Press your spacers in strongly to make for an even grout and simpler joints later on:

Step 4

Continue including tiles up until you’ve covered all the adhesive, then carry on the procedure for the rest of the wall. Clean any excess adhesive from the tiles utilizing a.
damp sponge as you go– it’s hard to get off when it’s dried:

Step 5.

Get rid of the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that might have gotten away from under the tiles. Then round off the wall with the cut tiles required for the.
gaps:

Tiling Internal Corners.

Action 1.

The most convenient method to determine for cutting is utilizing the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, place another versus the wall, and then mark they overlap in felt idea pen. Otherwise, simply take separate measurements at the top and bottom of the area and cut the tile to fit:

Action 2.

Inspect the cut tile fits effectively in the gap and change with a tile file if required. If you’re going to tile the next wall too you don’t require to be totally precise here, but keep in mind to leave enough space in the corner for grout if you’re just tiling one:

Action 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile using the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to protect it, and use joint spacers to keep the spaces if needed:

Step 4.

Repeat the process for the next one once you have actually completed your first wall. Constantly pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls meet. This can be the difference in between it looking scrappy and a job well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a neat surface on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It is available in a series of colours and materials (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps protect your edges from knocks and chips.

Action 1.

Cut your corner trim to the right length using a hacksaw, then use a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Line up the trim with the tiles from your first wall leaving room for grout later on: Vertically use more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, making sure not to loosen or knock off any tiles from the other wall:

Action 2.

Repeat the process from the first wall, working away from the corner trim and remembering to leave room for grout. Use spacers to help you change the tiles should.
you require to, and guarantee the range in between tiles stays constant. Verify the trim hasn’t moved and readjust if required when you have actually completed:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend almost completely on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight or even slightly curved back, determine the wall’s depth in multiples of whole tiles.

Step 1.

Procedure the width of your basin in whole tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Action 2.

Set out a row of tiles and include areas and edging strips at either end. Cut a wood batten to the exact same length and mark the tile and join positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, along with your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Action 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall using a level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, fix the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Examine it’s straight utilizing.
a level. If you doubt, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Use the adhesive equally to the location with a notched trowel. If you doubt, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Action 6.

Start in the middle and attach your first tile in line with the batten’s marks. When you’ve finished that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Action 7.

Utilize a damp fabric to rub out any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the upper and side edges, then mark and cut it to the right length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and refine with a tile apply for an especially clever surface:

Step 9.

When your edges are used, get rid of the batten and measure the space listed below. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to enable sealant between the sink and tiles. Then.
when the adhesive is dry, apply the grout and seal the bottom space:

If that does not answer your concerns about wall tiling then we do not understand what will. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button below:.

The thought of tiling your own walls may be challenging prospect, however with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you might think. Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. If not, merely cut in half the distance between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile large. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your area then do the very same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, keeping in mind to enable for sealant between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally unquestionable in place in an array to lid roofs, floors, walls, edges, or further objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes focus on to similar units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In different sense, a tile is a construction tile or same object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of afire clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from easy square tiles to profound or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but additional materials are as a consequence commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and supplementary composite materials, and stone. Tiling stone is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used on walls than on floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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