WHY SELECT ModernTiling.ie

There are several tiling business in Dublin, however it’s always the most essential to trust and pick. Your single click when searching for “local tilers near me” online or calling somebody over the phone can assist you discover a tiler in Dublin. Selecting the best tiling system in Dublin can be an overwhelming task. The problem is who to call the Dublin tiling centers. Don’t believe all of you blindly. Modern Tiling may be the best choice for your tiling needs.

We are a competent and certified tiling firm in Dublin. Having a number of years of experience and competent industrial tilers in Dublin, we can enthrall the appearance of your place with our beautiful ceramic tiles.


How To Tile A Wall: A Complete Guide To Wall Tiling

The thought of tiling your own walls may be difficult possibility, however with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you might believe. If you’re a bit daunted by wall tiling then don’t be as we’ve produced this useful guide that covers whatever there is know about wall tiling! You can utilize the buttons below to skip to the bit you have an interest in or merely scroll to read the whole lot.

Before Laying Your Tiles

Prior to you start, ensure the surfaces you’ll be dealing with are clean, flat and dry. Strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or fractures if you’re tiling over wallpaper. Examine the new plaster is dry before you begin, remembering it can take at least 2 months to set correctly, and utilize Mapei Guide G to prime any permeable surfaces.

As with all DIY jobs, appropriate preparation and your security preceded. Below is a list of products, protective gear and tiling tools you’ll need to finish the job in a safe way and to a high requirement:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

The number of tiles do you need?

The first step is working out the number of tiles you need, and to do that, you need to calculate the location of the space you’ll be covering. Step the height and width of the area then multiply the figures.

Be sure to consider the area of any cabinets, doors or windows and deduct this from the overall. To save confusion, it in some cases helps to knock up a quick sketch with all the measurements written down.

You can go ahead and buy your tiles as soon as you’re sure of the maths. Most ceramic tile packs cover a square metre, but we ‘d advise having around 5-10% additional just in case.


Getting going

It’s always suggested to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s much easier to make certain your pattern is balanced. It likewise means any half-tiles you might require can go at the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s tempting to start in the corner, it may leave you with wonky rows and a messy surface by the time you’re done.

Produce Your Style

As we pointed out previously, establish your vertical rows from the middle of your area. You can find this merely by determining the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a smart way to assist you with your row and end tile size. We recommend utilizing a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending upon the size of your wall.

Set out a line of tiles with space between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. Mark each tile and spaces on the rod with a pencil and number them. In this manner, it’s simple to see how many you need in each row.

Action 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions across it:

Action 2

Check if the last tile requires to be cut in order to fit once you reach a corner. If less than half a tile will be needed we suggest changing your beginning position, as larger tiles look better when ended up:

Step 3

If you do require to move your starting point, line up the rod at the original mark and make a brand-new one midway between 2 tile marks. This should mean your end tiles you need to cut will be more than half a tile large, which your centre line and centre tile now compare:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod against your new mark and, utilizing a spirit level to make ensure it’s straight, draw the line from side to side:

Developing Horizontal Rows

Once you have actually established your vertical rows, it’s time for the horizontal ones. We recommend utilizing wooden battens secured to the wall as a guide, as they’ll also assist prevent slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Action 1

With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you won’t have to cut any tiles for the bottom and leading rows. If not, just halve the distance in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile large.

Action 2

Step the range in between the two wall marks and add another halfway in between them:

Step 3

Hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then line up one if its marks with the one you’ve just made. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row begins. Using a long straight edge and spirit level, draw the line throughout the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Inspect behind the wall for any pipes or cables, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Utilize another batten for the vertical line.

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re just part-tiling a wall a leading horizontal row loaded with entire tiles makes for a much cleaner surface, so we believe it’s actually worth investing a long time to get it right.

Step 1

Use a gauge rod to work out the position of the most affordable horizontal row, then mark the top row’s position on the wall:

Step 2

Fill the space between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Keep in mind, you do not want them too small, so move your top row if they’re less than half a tile:

Action 3

If you do not like the concept of cutting tiles and would rather avoid it, examine to see if the skirting/wall is even. If it’s straight, you can use it to align your tiles instead.

Repairing Whole Tiles To A Wall

It’s really crucial to start laying your field tiles so the faces are level. If any are unequal, eliminate them and either include or eliminate adhesive so they all sit flush.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles usually mean you won’t require corner trim. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Make certain to leave a gap for grouting, too.

Action 1

Starting in the corner of your 2 battens, scoop up and use some adhesive to the wall utilizing your notched trowel. With a notched trowel, work away from the vertical batten in horizontal strokes holding the blade at around 45 °. We’re searching for excellent ridges here, as they imply an equivalent amount of adhesive behind the tiles and a much better possibility of them being straight. Work around one square metre at a time so the adhesive doesn’t dry:

Step 2

Use the first tile to the corner where your battens satisfy so its edges are against them, and press its centre strongly to the wall. Add the tiles above and next to it, being sure to leave a space in between them:

Step 3

Add tile spacers to these gaps and change the tiles where essential. Press your spacers in securely to produce an even grout and much easier joints later:

Step 4

Continue adding tiles till you’ve covered all the adhesive, then carry on the procedure for the rest of the wall. Clean any excess adhesive from the tiles utilizing a.
damp sponge as you go– it’s challenging to leave once it’s dried:

Step 5.

Eliminate the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that may have gotten away from under the tiles. Then round off the wall with the cut tiles required for the.

Tiling Internal Corners.

Action 1.

The most convenient method to measure for cutting is utilizing the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, place another against the wall, and then mark they overlap in felt tip pen. Otherwise, merely take separate measurements at the top and bottom of the space and cut the tile to fit:

Action 2.

Examine the cut tile fits properly in the gap and change with a tile file if needed. If you’re going to tile the next wall as well you don’t require to be totally accurate here, but remember to leave enough room in the corner for grout if you’re just tiling one:

Step 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile utilizing the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to protect it, and utilize joint spacers to keep the gaps if needed:

Step 4.

Repeat the procedure for the next one when you have actually completed your first wall. Always pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls meet. This can be the difference in between it looking scrappy and a job well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a neat surface on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It is available in a series of colours and materials (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps safeguard your edges from knocks and chips.

Action 1.

Cut your corner trim to the ideal length utilizing a hacksaw, then use a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Line up the trim with the tiles from your very first wall leaving space for grout in the future: Vertically apply more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, making sure not to knock or loosen up off any tiles from the other wall:

Action 2.

Repeat the procedure from the first wall, working far from the corner trim and remembering to leave space for grout. Use spacers to help you change the tiles should.
you need to, and make sure the range in between tiles stays constant. Confirm the trim hasn’t moved and adjust if required when you’ve completed:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend almost completely on the shape of your basin. Measure the wall’s depth in multiples of entire tiles if there’s a straight or even somewhat curved back. A more noticable curved means you’ll require to cut tiles to fit and enable for a row of half-tiles closest to your basin. If there’s just a slight curve, or the edge is totally straight, you can lay the very first row level to it without needing to cut tiles. We suggest using either cardboard or paper spacers to assist you while the adhesive dries, which can then be removed and the sign up with filled with sealant.

Action 1.

Procedure the width of your basin in entire tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Step 2.

Set out a row of tiles and include areas and edging strips at either end. Cut a wood batten to the exact same length and mark the tile and join positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, as well as your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Step 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall using a level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, repair the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Examine it’s straight utilizing.
a level. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge must be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Apply the adhesive evenly to the area with a notched trowel. If you doubt, the upper edge must be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 6.

Start in the center and connect your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. Once you’ve ended up that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Action 7.

Utilize a moist cloth to rub out any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the side and upper edges, then mark and cut it to the best length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and fine-tune with a tile file for a particularly clever finish:

Step 9.

When your edges are used, eliminate the batten and determine the space below. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to allow for sealant in between the sink and tiles. Then.
when the adhesive is dry, use the grout and seal the bottom space:

And there you have it! Then we do not understand what will, if that doesn’t address your questions about wall tiling. if you’re still left wanting more however you can constantly enjoy our beneficial How-To videos including TV handyman Craig Phillips or check out the Aid Centre section of our site for more handy tips and ideas. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button listed below:.

The idea of tiling your own walls may be complicated possibility, but with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more simple than you might think. Lay out a line of tiles with area between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. If not, simply halve the distance in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile large. Tile the first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to permit for sealant between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally fixed idea in place in an array to lid roofs, floors, walls, edges, or supplementary objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes talk to to similar units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In unusual sense, a tile is a construction tile or similar object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of ablaze clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from simple square tiles to highbrow or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but supplementary materials are furthermore commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and other composite materials, and stone. Tiling stone is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used on walls than on floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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