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We are a certified and qualified tiling agency in Dublin. Having a number of years of experience and competent commercial tilers in Dublin, we can enthrall the appearance of your location with our beautiful ceramic tiles.

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How To Tile A Wall: A Total Guide To Wall Tiling

The idea of tiling your own walls might be daunting prospect, however with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you might believe. Then don’t be as we’ve developed this helpful guide that covers everything there is understand about wall tiling, if you’re a bit daunted by wall tiling! You can use the buttons listed below to avoid to the bit you’re interested in or merely scroll to check out the whole lot.

Before Laying Your Tiles

Before you begin, make certain the surfaces you’ll be working on are tidy, flat and dry. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or fractures. Check the brand-new plaster is dry prior to you start, keeping in mind it can take a minimum of two months to set appropriately, and use Mapei Guide G to prime any porous surfaces.

As with all Do It Yourself jobs, proper preparation and your safety come. Below is a list of products, protective equipment and tiling tools you’ll require to finish the job in a safe way and to a high requirement:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

The number of tiles do you need?

The initial step is exercising how many tiles you require, and to do that, you have to compute the location of the area you’ll be covering. Step the height and width of the area then multiply the figures.

Make sure to factor in the area of any cabinets, doors or windows and subtract this from the overall. To conserve confusion, it sometimes helps to knock up a fast sketch with all the measurements jotted down.

Once you’re sure of the mathematics, you can proceed and buy your tiles. Most ceramic tile loads cover a square metre, but we ‘d suggest having around 5-10% additional just in case.

tiles

Getting going

It’s constantly recommended to begin tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s simpler to make sure your pattern is balanced. It likewise indicates any half-tiles you may require can address the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s tempting to start in the corner, it might leave you with wonky rows and an untidy surface by the time you’re done.

Develop Your Style

As we mentioned earlier, develop your vertical rows from the middle of your space. You can discover this merely by measuring the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a smart method to help you with your row and end tile size. We recommend utilizing a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending on the size of your wall.

Set out a line of tiles with area in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. Mark each tile and gaps on the rod with a pencil and number them. This way, it’s easy to see the number of you require in each row.

Step 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions throughout it:

Action 2

Check if the last tile requires to be cut in order to fit as soon as you reach a corner. If less than half a tile will be required we recommend adjusting your beginning position, as bigger tiles look better when finished:

Step 3

If you do require to move your beginning point, line up the rod at the initial mark and make a new one midway between 2 tile marks. This should suggest your end tiles you need to cut will be over half a tile large, which your centre line and centre tile now compare:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod versus your brand-new mark and, using a spirit level to make guarantee it’s straight, draw the line from side to side:

Developing Horizontal Rows

It’s time for the horizontal ones once you have actually developed your vertical rows. We recommend using wood battens secured to the wall as a guide, as they’ll likewise help prevent slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Action 1

Align your gauge rod, vertical line and skirting/floor, then pencil mark along with the rod’s top tile mark. Do this all the way up the wall following the vertical line till the rod touches the ceiling. With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you won’t have to cut any tiles for the bottom and leading rows. If not, merely halve the distance in between the wall and rod marks and, just like the vertical rows, make certain it’s over half a tile broad. If they’re less than half a tile’s width, just use the next mark down on the rod:

Step 2

Step the distance between the two wall marks and add another halfway between them:

Action 3

If its marks with the one you’ve simply made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then line up one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row starts. Utilizing a long straight edge and spirit level, draw the line throughout the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Inspect behind the wall for any pipelines or cables, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Its leading edge should be lined up with the horizontal pencil line, and ought to be straight. Utilize another batten for the vertical line. It’s a good concept to leave the batten’s nail heads sticking out a little as they’ll be easier to remove in the future:

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re only part-tiling a wall a top horizontal row full of entire tiles makes for a much cleaner surface, so we believe it’s truly worth investing a long time to get it right.

Step 1

Use a gauge rod to work out the position of the lowest horizontal row, then mark the leading row’s position on the wall:

Step 2

Fill the gap in between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Keep in mind, you do not desire them too little, so move your leading row if they’re less than half a tile:

Step 3

If you do not like the idea of cutting tiles and would rather prevent it, examine to see if the skirting/wall is even. Utilize a long, straight batten, levelled with a spirit level, to discover the lowest point. You can utilize it to align your tiles rather if it’s directly. If not, it’s time to get cutting those tiles!

Fixing Entire Tiles To A Wall

It’s actually important to begin laying your field tiles so the faces are level. Remove them and either add or eliminate adhesive so they all sit flush if any are unequal.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles normally suggest you will not need corner trim. Tile the first wall right as much as the edge of your area then do the exact same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Make sure to leave a space for grouting, too.

Action 1

Starting in the corner of your 2 battens, scoop up and use some adhesive to the wall utilizing your notched trowel. Then with a notched trowel, work far from the vertical batten in horizontal strokes holding the blade at around 45 °. We’re searching for good ridges here, as they suggest an equal quantity of adhesive behind the tiles and a better opportunity of them being straight. Work around one square metre at a time so the adhesive doesn’t dry out:

Action 2

Use the first tile to the corner where your battens satisfy so its edges protest them, and press its centre firmly to the wall. Add the tiles above and beside it, making certain to leave a space in between them:


Step 3

Include tile spacers to these spaces and change the tiles where necessary. Press your spacers in securely to make for an even grout and much easier joints later:

Step 4

Continue adding tiles till you’ve covered all the adhesive, then carry on the procedure for the remainder of the wall. Clean any excess adhesive from the tiles using a.
moist sponge as you go– it’s hard to get off as soon as it’s dried:

Step 5.

Get rid of the vertical batten and scrape off any excess adhesive that might have left from under the tiles. Complete off the wall with the cut tiles required for the.
spaces:

Tiling Internal Corners.

Step 1.

The simplest method to measure for cutting is using the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, location another versus the wall, and after that mark they overlap in felt pointer pen. Otherwise, just take different measurements at the top and bottom of the space and cut the tile to fit:

Step 2.

Check the cut tile fits properly in the gap and change with a tile file if needed. If you’re going to tile the next wall as well you do not require to be absolutely accurate here, but remember to leave enough room in the corner for grout if you’re just tiling one:

Step 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile utilizing the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to secure it, and use joint spacers to keep the gaps if needed:

Step 4.

Repeat the process for the next one once you have actually finished your very first wall. Constantly pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls fulfill. This can be the difference between it looking scrappy and a task well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a neat surface on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It can be found in a range of colours and materials (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps secure your edges from knocks and chips.

Step 1.

Cut your corner trim to the right length using a hacksaw, then use a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Line up the trim with the tiles from your first wall leaving space for grout later: Vertically apply more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, taking care not to knock or loosen up off any tiles from the other wall:

Step 2.

Repeat the process from the first wall, working away from the corner trim and keeping in mind to leave space for grout. Use spacers to help you change the tiles should.
you need to, and guarantee the range between tiles stays consistent. Confirm the trim hasn’t moved and readjust if needed when you’ve finished:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend practically entirely on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight or even somewhat curved back, measure the wall’s depth in multiples of whole tiles.

Step 1.

Step the width of your basin in whole tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Action 2.

Set out a row of tiles and include spaces and edging strips at either end. Cut a wood batten to the same length and mark the tile and sign up with positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, as well as your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Action 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall utilizing a level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, repair the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Check it’s straight utilizing.
a level. If you doubt, the upper edge needs to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Use the adhesive equally to the location with a notched trowel. If you doubt, the upper edge ought to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Action 6.

Start in the center and attach your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. As soon as you have actually finished that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Action 7.

Utilize a moist fabric to rub out any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the upper and side edges, then mark and suffice to the right length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and refine with a tile declare an especially clever surface:

Step 9.

When your edges are used, remove the batten and determine the gap below. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to allow for sealant between the sink and tiles. Then.
when the adhesive is dry, apply the grout and seal the bottom gap:

And there you have it! If that does not answer your questions about wall tiling then we do not understand what will. if you’re still left wanting more nevertheless you can constantly view our beneficial How-To videos including TELEVISION handyman Craig Phillips or check out the Help Centre area of our site for more handy hints and tips. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button below:.

The thought of tiling your own walls might be complicated prospect, but with the right preparation and by using the right tools, it’s a lot more uncomplicated than you might think. Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. If not, just cut in half the range in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile broad. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your space then do the same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to permit for sealant in between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally pure in place in an array to lid roofs, floors, walls, edges, or further objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes deal with to similar units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In unorthodox sense, a tile is a construction tile or similar object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of afire clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from simple square tiles to obscure or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but other materials are with commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and extra composite materials, and stone. Tiling rock is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used on walls than on floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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