WHY SELECT Modern Tiling

There are numerous tiling companies in Dublin, but it’s always the most essential to trust and select. Your single click when searching for “local tilers near me” online or calling someone over the phone can assist you discover a tiler in Dublin. Yet choosing the right tiling system in Dublin can be an overwhelming task. The problem is who to contact the Dublin tiling facilities. Do not believe all of you blindly. Modern Tiling may be the best option for your tiling requires.

We are a certified and licensed tiling agency in Dublin. Having several years of experience and knowledgeable industrial tilers in Dublin, we can mesmerize the appearance of your location with our lovely ceramic tiles.


How To Tile A Wall: A Complete Guide To Wall Tiling

The thought of tiling your own walls may be difficult possibility, however with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more straightforward than you may think. If you’re a bit intimidated by wall tiling then do not be as we’ve created this convenient guide that covers whatever there is understand about wall tiling! You can use the buttons below to avoid to the bit you have an interest in or just scroll to check out the entire lot.

Before Laying Your Tiles

Before you begin, make certain the surfaces you’ll be dealing with are tidy, flat and dry. If you’re tiling over wallpaper, strip it back to the plaster and fill in any holes or fractures. Examine the brand-new plaster is dry before you begin, keeping in mind it can take a minimum of 2 months to set properly, and utilize Mapei Primer G to prime any permeable surfaces.

As with all Do It Yourself jobs, correct preparation and your safety come. Below is a list of materials, protective gear and tiling tools you’ll need to do the job in a safe method and to a high standard:

tiling materials

Wall Tiling Preparation

How many tiles do you need?

The first step is working out the number of tiles you need, and to do that, you have to determine the area of the space you’ll be covering. Step the height and width of the space then increase the figures.

Be sure to consider the location of any doors, cupboards or windows and deduct this from the overall. To conserve confusion, it sometimes helps to knock up a quick sketch with all the dimensions documented.

As soon as you’re sure of the maths, you can go ahead and buy your tiles. Many ceramic tile packs cover a square metre, however we ‘d suggest having around 5-10% additional simply in case.



It’s constantly recommended to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it’s much easier to make sure your pattern is balanced. It likewise implies any half-tiles you may require can address the end of each row and will be of matching size. While it’s appealing to begin in the corner, it might leave you with wonky rows and an untidy finish by the time you’re done.

Produce Your Style

As we pointed out earlier, establish your vertical rows from the middle of your area. You can find this simply by determining the height and width, and marking the middle with a pencil.

A gauge rod is a clever way to assist you with your row and end tile size. We suggest utilizing a 50mm x 25mm piece of wood, although any will do, with a length of around 1.8 m depending on the size of your wall.

Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. Mark each tile and gaps on the rod with a pencil and number them. By doing this, it’s simple to see the number of you need in each row.

Step 1

Hold the gauge rod in line with the centre of your wall and mark the tile positions across it:

Action 2

Check if the last tile needs to be cut in order to fit as soon as you reach a corner. If less than half a tile will be required we suggest adjusting your beginning position, as larger tiles look much better when ended up:

Step 3

If you do need to move your beginning point, line up the rod at the original mark and make a new one halfway in between 2 tile marks. This need to suggest your end tiles you require to cut will be majority a tile broad, which your centre line and centre tile now compare:

Step 4

Hold the gauge rod against your new mark and, utilizing a spirit level to make ensure it’s straight, draw the line from side to side:

Developing Horizontal Rows

As soon as you have actually developed your vertical rows, it’s time for the horizontal ones. We suggest utilizing wooden battens secured to the wall as a guide, as they’ll likewise help avoid slippage while the adhesive is setting.

Step 1

With any luck, the wall and rod lines will match up and you will not have to cut any tiles for the bottom and leading rows. If not, simply halve the range in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile broad.

Step 2

Step the range between the two wall marks and add another midway between them:

Action 3

If its marks with the one you’ve simply made, hold the gauge rod clear of the skirting/floor then align one. Make another mark level with the foot of the rod.This will be where your horizontal row begins. Using a long straight edge and spirit level, draw the line throughout the wall from the mark:

Step 4

Inspect behind the wall for any cable televisions or pipes, then nail your 50mm x 25mm batten. Utilize another batten for the vertical line.

Part-Tiling A Wall

If you’re just part-tiling a wall a top horizontal row full of whole tiles makes for a much cleaner surface, so we think it’s really worth investing some time to get it.

Step 1

Use a gauge rod to work out the position of the lowest horizontal row, then mark the leading row’s position on the wall:

Action 2

Fill the space in between your bottom row and skirting/floor with cut tiles. Remember, you don’t desire them too small, so move your top row if they’re less than half a tile:

Step 3

If you don’t like the concept of cutting tiles and would rather avoid it, inspect to see if the skirting/wall is even. If it’s straight, you can use it to align your tiles instead.

Fixing Entire Tiles To A Wall

It’s actually essential to start laying your field tiles so the faces are level. If any are irregular, eliminate them and either add or get rid of adhesive so they all sit flush.

Bevelled or rounded glazed edge tiles normally suggest you won’t need corner trim. Tile the first wall right approximately the edge of your space then do the very same for the return, allowing the corners to overlap. Be sure to leave a gap for grouting, too.

Action 1

Beginning in the corner of your two battens, scoop up and apply some adhesive to the wall using your notched trowel. We’re looking for good ridges here, as they imply an equivalent amount of adhesive behind the tiles and a much better opportunity of them being straight.

Action 2

Use the first tile to the corner where your battens fulfill so its edges protest them, and push its centre firmly to the wall. Add the tiles above and beside it, being sure to leave a gap in between them:

Action 3

Add tile spacers to these spaces and change the tiles where essential. Press your spacers in strongly to produce an even grout and simpler joints later:

Step 4

Continue including tiles till you’ve covered all the adhesive, then carry on the procedure for the rest of the wall. Wipe any excess adhesive from the tiles using a.
damp sponge as you go– it’s hard to get off when it’s dried:

Step 5.

Scrape and remove the vertical batten off any excess adhesive that may have left from under the tiles. Then finish off the wall with the cut tiles needed for the.

Tiling Internal Corners.

Action 1.

The easiest way to determine for cutting is using the last whole one in the row– hold a tile over it, place another versus the wall, and then mark they overlap in felt suggestion pen. Otherwise, just take separate measurements at the top and bottom of the space and cut the tile to fit:

Step 2.

If needed, examine the cut tile fits appropriately in the gap and change with a tile file. If you’re going to tile the next wall too you do not need to be completely precise here, however remember to leave enough room in the corner for grout if you’re only tiling one:

Action 3.

Apply adhesive to the back of your cut tile utilizing the narrow end of a notched trowel. Put it in place so it’s level, press to protect it, and use joint spacers to keep the spaces if needed:

Step 4.

When you have actually completed your very first wall, repeat the process for the next one. Constantly pursue the neatest grouted joint possible where the two walls satisfy. This can be the distinction between it looking scrappy and a job well done:

Tiling External Corners.

For a neat finish on your external corners, corner trim is a must. It can be found in a series of products and colours (anodised aluminium is popular) and sizes and helps secure your edges from knocks and chips.

Action 1.

Cut your corner trim to the ideal length utilizing a hacksaw, then apply a strip of adhesive to the return wall and press it in. Line up the trim with the tiles from your first wall leaving room for grout in the future: Vertically use more adhesive to the return wall with a notched trowel, taking care not to knock or loosen up off any tiles from the other wall:

Action 2.

Repeat the procedure from the very first wall, working far from the corner trim and keeping in mind to leave space for grout. Use spacers to help you change the tiles should.
you require to, and ensure the range in between tiles remains consistent. Double-check the trim hasn’t moved and readjust if required as soon as you’ve completed:

Tiling A Splashback.

Tiling a splashback will depend almost completely on the shape of your basin. If there’s a straight or even a little curved back, determine the wall’s depth in multiples of entire tiles.

Action 1.

Measure the width of your basin in whole tiles then mark the centre point on the wall:

Action 2.

Lay out a row of tiles and include areas and edging strips at either end. Cut a wooden batten to the very same length and mark the tile and sign up with positions on it. This will be your gauge rod, along with your lower batten for any half-tiles:

Step 3.

Draw a vertical line from the centre point up the wall using a spirit level:

Step 4.

To cut the bottom row of tiles, repair the batten to the wall with 50mm masonry nails in the centre of the vertical line. Examine it’s straight using.
a level. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge must be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Step 5.

Use the adhesive evenly to the location with a notched trowel. If you’re uncertain, the upper edge ought to be around half a tile’s width from the top of the basin:

Action 6.

Start in the middle and attach your very first tile in line with the batten’s marks. When you’ve finished that row, continue above it fitting spacers as you go:

Action 7.

Use a wet fabric to wipe off any excess adhesive:

Step 8.

Apply matching glazed trim to the side and upper edges, then mark and suffice to the right length. Cut the corners to 45 ° and refine with a tile apply for an especially wise finish:

Step 9.

Once your edges are applied, get rid of the batten and determine the space below. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to enable sealant in between the sink and tiles. Then.
when the adhesive is dry, use the grout and seal the bottom space:

If that doesn’t address your concerns about wall tiling then we don’t know what will. To download this guide in PDF format, click the button listed below:.

The thought of tiling your own walls might be difficult possibility, however with the right preparation and by utilizing the right tools, it’s a lot more simple than you might think. Lay out a line of tiles with space in between them, then line up the batten edge with that of your first tile. If not, merely halve the distance in between the wall and rod marks and, as with the vertical rows, make sure it’s more than half a tile large. Tile the very first wall right up to the edge of your area then do the same for the return, enabling the corners to overlap. Cut your tiles to fit, remembering to enable for sealant between the sink and tiles.

Watch this video and learn how to tile kitchen wall

Tilers (WikiPedia)

Tiles are usually thin, square or rectangular coverings manufactured from hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, baked clay, or even glass. They are generally definite in place in an array to cover roofs, floors, walls, edges, or further objects such as tabletops. Alternatively, tile can sometimes concentrate on to thesame units made from lightweight materials such as perlite, wood, and mineral wool, typically used for wall and ceiling applications. In substitute sense, a tile is a construction tile or similar object, such as rectangular counters used in playing games (see tile-based game). The word is derived from the French word tuile, which is, in turn, from the Latin word tegula, meaning a roof tile composed of fired clay.

Tiles are often used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from simple square tiles to mysterious or mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but extra materials are in addition to commonly used, such as glass, cork, concrete and extra composite materials, and stone. Tiling rock is typically marble, onyx, granite or slate. Thinner tiles can be used on walls than upon floors, which require more durable surfaces that will resist impacts.

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